This post can also be read at the Above Us Only Skies website

There are many things we love about Brazil. The food, the beaches, the amazing landscapes. Not to mention the vibrancy of its people, manifesting in the rhythms of samba, bossa nova and forró.

But for me, as a Brit, watching football (or futebol as it’s known here) at the Maracaná Stadium is right up there with some of the country’s best experiences. And being based around Rio de Janeiro has given me the opportunity to go to the games as local fans do - albeit without the fierce passion on plentiful display from true local supporters.

There are actually four top-flight teams based in Rio de Janeiro - Flamengo, Fluminense, Botafogo and Vasco de Gama. Of those, the first two teams share the Maracaná Stadium and typically play there on alternate weekends during the main Serie A season (April till December).

All four have a rich history, but it’s Flamengo who have the largest support, stretching well beyond Rio. Which means that, for the casual visitor, watching Flamengo play at the iconic Maracaná is about as good as it gets in terms of atmosphere and limitless passion.

In this post, I’ll show you how to get tickets. And, in my next post, describe what the electrifying match day experience is like.

About Flamengo

Flamengo - or Clube de Regatas do Flamengo - actually started life as a rowing club in 1895. At that time, rowing was the dominant sport in Rio, football being a mere distraction. But, with the dawn of the 20th century, the game grew in popularity. And, in 1911, after a group of disgruntled players joined from Fluminense FC, the football side of the now multi-sport club was established.

The intense rivalry between the two teams was established as Fluminense FC were associated with elite Rio society, whereas Flamengo (as a breakaway club) attracted working class supporters.

Playing in their iconic red and black hooped shirts, the rubro-negra have since become the biggest club in Brazil, culminating in their crowning glory when beating Liverpool 3-0 in 1981’s Intercontinental Cup (which before the days of the bloated FIFA World Club Cup was played between the previous season’s winners of the European Cup and South America’s Copa Libertadores, in a one-off final). A win inspired by one of the world’s greatest ever players in Arthur Antunes Coimbra - aka Zico.

Being an Everton fan (and therefore a rival of Liverpool’s) I remember watching highlights of the game late at night via a dodgy satellite feed on (I think) the BBC. It was the first time I’d ever heard of Flamengo. But I was so mesmerised by the way they dismantled Liverpool that they’ve held an almost mythical fascination for me ever since.

About the Maracaná Stadium

Officially known as Estádio Jornalista Mário Filho, (“Maracaná” is its nickname derived from a nearby river of the same name), it’s probably the world’s most iconic football stadium, with the possible exception of Wembley in England.

Constructed in time for the 1950 FIFA World Cup, it managed to pack in a mind-boggling 173,850 supporters for that tournament’s ultimate game - which still stands today as a world record attendance for a football match.

Of course, that was back in the days when standing in stadiums was the norm. Nowadays, the all-seater version holds nearer 73,000. Not that many supporters bother staying in their seats while the game is on, however. But a floodlit Maracaná filled with expectant, boisterous, flag-waving fans remains an intimidating bear pit of a place for visiting teams.

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How to buy tickets

First of all, don’t expect to receive a physical ticket for a game. Entry to the Maracaná is handled by clever face recognition software at the turnstile. Which means that before buying a ticket, you need to register and upload a portrait photograph of yourself to Flamengo’s biometrics page on their website.

Any tickets you buy are then connected to your photograph, which is in turn recognised at the turnstile by the software. Unless, of course, you’re as useless as me and somehow manage to upload a photograph of your partner instead - cue lots of explaining and pleading to sympathetic turnstile stewards who eventually allow me inside.

Here’s how to do do it online (spoiler alert - it can be far from straightforward):

Firstly, go to the dedicated biometrics page and add your country of origin, full name, passport number and date of birth. You’ll then be directed to a page where you can upload a photograph of your face via a QR code. Unless you follow the instructions carefully you might have to upload more than one photo (looking straight ahead, neutral expression, good lighting etc).

All being well, you’ll capture the right image at the first attempt and you’ll receive a “congratulations” message to show that your biometrics (face-recognition details) are set up.

Biometrics aside, there are four options to buy tickets:

1 Via the official website

First, you’ll need to register on the dedicated ticketing page (this is separate to registering for the biometrics). As part of the registering process you’ll be prompted to provide a “CPF”, which is a unique tax identification number for Brazilians. However, in the dropdown menu you can select “Passport” as an option instead.

You will also need to provide a Brazilian address as there is no option for addresses outside of the country. I simply used my accommodation details in Rio.

Once you’re registered and logged in, the page will display the upcoming games with details of ticket options and when they are available to buy. After club members have had a few days to buy their tickets, those on general sale become available three or four days before the game. You can find out exactly when by clicking or tapping the Informações button.

You will also be updated on the availability of tickets via another button, which will be marked either em breve (available soon), comprar (buy now) or esgocardo (sold out).

If it’s showing, select the comprar button, after which you can choose which part of the stadium you want your tickets for, along with the price. Select the section you want, along with the number of tickets (normally up to a maximum of three), then select comprar (buy).

On the next page, you need to select if your ticket is full price (inteira) or half price (meia entrada). If you’re over the age of 60 you qualify for half price but I can’t confirm at this point how you can prove that.

Then select the adicionar dados no ingresso button, which will launch a pop-up for you to enter your personal details - full name, passport number and date of birth. You’ll need to do this for each ticket you’ve bought and confirm via the adicionar dados (add data) button.

Next, select the ir para pagamento button to go through to the payment page. A credit card should be fine, although the system seemed to crash on me when I tried to use my card for the in-demand Flamengo v Fluminense game.

Once you’ve paid you’ll receive a confirmation email, but no actual ticket. In effect, your “ticket” is your face as it’s all you need when you arrive at the turnstile. As long as you’ve uploaded the correct photograph!

If my experience is anything to go by, you’ll need some patience to see it through. But it’s the easiest and quickest way to buy your ticket if everything’s working.

Best of luck!

2 At the Flamengo Club in Gávea

If you prefer buying tickets the old school way you can also go along to the Flamengo club box office in Gávea (Av. Borges de Medeiros, 997 - Gávea, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 22430-041). Once again, you’ll need to wait until they are on general sale. And you’ll need to take along your original passport (no copies).

If you haven’t already done so, your face-recognition biometrics can be done there and then, too.

3 At the Maracaná box office

If you haven’t managed to buy your tickets in advance, you can also register your biometrics and buy your tickets at the Maracaná Stadium box office (at Gate 1) on the day of the game. Be prepared for queues, though. Especially for the “big” games.

4 Through a third party

If all else fails - or you’d prefer to have everything taken care of (including ticket, biometrics, transportation and an English-speaking guide) - you might consider buying your ticket through a local agency. After my failed attempt to buy Fla-Flu tickets online, I did just that by booking with a guide who’d been recommended through a local Facebook group.

And Rafa, who was fluent in English, was excellent. I was actually part of a group of ten English speakers, which is an added advantage for someone who’s on their own. And, if safety is of particular concern (the area around the Maracaná IS edgy) then this might be a better option for you.

Yes, it’s more expensive, but you get what you pay for.

How to get to there

The best two options are via the metro or to simply take an Uber ride.

Maracaná’s metro station is on Line 2 and is the most popular way for fans to arrive. We’ve not tried it out as we’re always based in Niteroí, from where there’s no metro or bus connection.

Instead, I always opt for an Uber, which is a phenomenally cheap way to get around Rio at any time. Just be mindful that the closer it gets to kick-off time, the more congested the roads around the stadium - including the potential for certain access roads being blocked off. So allow plenty of time (arrive at least an hour before kick-off).

And, if you’ve already bought your ticket, make sure you let the Uber driver know which gate you need so that he/she can drop you off at the nearest point.

After the game you’ll find that some of the roads around the ground will be closed off to traffic, so you’ll need to make your way to the nearest main thoroughfare to book your return journey. As I usually sit in the "Leste” (East) section, I exit onto Avenida Maracaná, then turn right until I reach Rua São Francisco Xavier. But you can reach alternative sections of that road from other stadium exits points, too.

Buses are another option but are less efficient than the metro. And they’re generally considered less safe at night, so if you’re going to an evening match you’d be wise to avoid them.

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Is it safe to go the game independently?

With the usual caveats about taking safety precautions in Rio, it’s perfectly safe to go to a game independently. Especially if you blend in by wearing Flamengo’s colours. Don’t worry if you’ve not managed to buy a shirt or hat beforehand - there are plenty of vendors outside the ground selling cheap merchandise. Or you can buy authentic gear once you’re inside.

Bear in mind that 99% of all supporters will be wearing the red and black of Flamengo. So if you do the same, you won’t look out of place. Just don’t go wandering off along quiet and dark streets after the game - either head straight for the metro or the main road back to Rio’s centre if you’re using Uber.

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How to buy tickets for a Fluminense game

Unlike Flamengo’s official site, Fluminense’s doesn’t seem to be foreigner-friendly as you need a CPF to register (there’s no option to enter your passport number). As a result, you’ll need to buy your tickets at the stadium box office or use a third party, such as the one I used with Rafa.

Final thoughts

Even if you’re not a futebol fan and aren’t remotely interested in the pros and cons of the offside rule, you’d be missing out on a treat if you don’t try to include a visit to the Maracaná to watch a game (assuming you’re in Rio between April and December).

It might be something of a cliché to say that Brazilians live and breathe football, but when you witness the intensity inside the stadium on match day it’s hard to argue otherwise.

Having been lucky enough to spend the best part of nine months in neighbouring Niteroi (over several visits), I’ve managed to watch both Flamengo and Fluminense play on several occasions. On each occasion the atmosphere has been electric.

And, in my next post, I’ll describe what the experience is like.

In the meantime do yourself a favour, book a match ticket, buy a replica shirt and become a Flamengo (or Fluminense) fan for a day!

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

Rio de Janeiro’s beaches are rightly lauded as some of the most iconic in the world. Indeed, anyone who visits the city invariably heads to the delights of Ipanema and Copacabana at some point. They’re less likely, however, to make the relatively easy trip over Guanabara Bay to Niterói, Rio’s under-the-radar neighbour and home to a range of fabulous Atlantic-facing beaches.

There are plenty to choose from, but hands down our favourite is Praia de Itacoatiara (pronounced ee-ta-co-atchee-AH-ra) - a superb stretch of fine powder sand bookended by two granite peaks. It gets swamped at weekends when locals from Niterói and Rio pack their cars with deckchairs, surfboards, footballs and picnic boxes for a day of doing what Brazilians do best. But during the week, it’s a much more relaxed affair.

Better still, there’s a superb hiking trail through the forest up to Morro do Costão (aka Costão de Itacoatiara), from where there are panoramic views of the beach below and across Niterói to the incredible Rio skyline.

The Costão de Itacoatiara trail

To access the trail, take the last turn on the left before the beach along Rua Matia Sandri into Rua das Rosas. It’s a wide, cobbled residential street with whitewashed walls bearing splashes of violet bougainvillea. Although there’s no signage to indicate it, the trailhead is a ten minute walk further on. Here’s my account of the hike...

As I head along Rua das Rosas, the towering granite of Pedra do Elefante (named because it resembles the head of an elephant) rises in front of me. To my right, the route to the summit of Costão de Itacoatiara is hidden behind a daunting sheer rock face.

I reach the trailhead, which is actually an entrance to the Parque Estadual da Serra de Tiririca, a state park encompassing both peaks. However, before I can head on I have to provide my name, nationality and date of birth to a military police-uniformed steward, who dutifully adds me to a list of fellow hikers (presumably to ensure everyone is accounted for by the time the trail closes at 17:30).

From there the trail, a combination of dirt and tree roots, climbs and winds its way through the forest. Five minutes in and I’m “greeted” by a lone marmoset, a type of small monkey I’ve encountered many times during our stay in Brazil. Figuring its main objective is to relieve me of the contents of my rucksack, I allow it a momentary stare before brushing past.

Just ten minutes further on, I reach a signpost outlining the choices from here.

Ahead, the trail continues downwards to a sheltered cove at Bananal. However, my route is to the right, where a few steps further on I reach a wall of granite rising sharply from the forest. It marks the beginning of the trail’s toughest section and has to be scaled using a rope handrail.

It might look daunting, but once I’ve pulled myself up onto the rockface it’s a surprisingly easy ascent. Indeed, the greater challenge comes when I reach the top and the handrail finishes. There’s more bare rock requiring some scrambling. And it’s pretty steep. So much so that I see a woman ahead who’s frozen with fear to the rock, her arms and legs ready for the next step but stuck in limbo.

After some cajoling from her partner, she eventually moves, enabling me to follow. Incredibly, there are people beside me clambering over the rockface in flip flops. Personally, I’m just grateful my walking shoes have a good grip because any slips from here would see me returning directly to the forest below in record time.

Arriving at a flatter section, it’s time for a breather and to take a look around. I look behind me to see a group of eight black vultures soaring above the forest, the tips of their vast wings seemingly dipped in white paint. Meanwhile, the Jurassic Park-like mass of Pedra do Elefante stretches away to the right. To my left, I can just see the outline of Rio’s mountainous skyline through a gap between the forest and the rockface.

But when I turn around and look ahead, I’m confronted with another section of bare rock. Not as steep this time, but there’s much more of it.

The climb starts to feel a little relentless as I push on to reach the summit. To my left, the view begins to reveal the much higher Pedra do Elefante in its full jumbo glory. Its elephant head seemingly looking out to the horizon, with its trunk plunging into the sea, it too features a trail to the summit.

And, finally, 30 minutes or so after starting from the trailhead, I’ve reached the summit of Morro do Costão. Which is basically a rocky plateau interspersed with a curious mixture of cactus, palm trees and other random foliage.

The view to the right, over to Rio de Janeiro, is astonishing. Beyond the grey, naked plateau edge, the white sand of Itacoatiara Beach stretches to a forested headland (Morro das Andorinhas). Beyond, the twin beaches of Camboinhas and Piratininga sparkle and curl around a wide bay. And, in the background, the unmistakable south Rio peaks of Sugarloaf, Corcovado, the Two Brothers and Pedra de Gavea. All protected by a blue sky sprinkled with a dusting of wispy, feather clouds.

Suffice to say, it’s time to rest tired calf muscles, take a seat on the bare rock and drink in the panorama.

But it doesn’t end there. At the very end of the plateau, a “hidden” narrow trail cuts through a section of foliage. Heading downwards through ever-encroaching vegetation and seemingly going nowhere, I consider turning back. But my return is stopped by another hiker who insists it’s worth the extra five minutes to brave a sometimes hairy skirmish on bare rock with a drop directly into the sea.

Emboldened by my earlier rock climbing pursuits, I agree to follow. And, sure enough, I’m glad for my well-gripped footwear. The end of the line is another flat section of rock looking east, beyond Pedra do Elefante and along the coast toward Maricá.

It doesn’t quite compare to the panorama of Rio, but it’s still a wonderful spot for a few restful moments.

Back on the main plateau, I decide it’s time for a closer look at the beach.

Although the “edge” of the plateau looks like a sheer drop, it actually slopes away for a while before it suddenly plummets 200 metres to the sands below. Not something anyone should consider doing on a wet or windy day, I nevertheless take baby steps down the slope until I’m looking directly onto the beach.

I can hear the faint mumbling of people’s voices amidst the soothing tones of the surf as it washes ashore. In the water, a dozen or so surfers prepare for the arrival of a suitably robust wave. Meanwhile above me, circling black vultures are silhouetted against the sky. The optics are not lost on me, so I take a few photos and make a hasty retreat.

I'll need to retrace my steps for the return leg to the trail entrance. Which includes tackling the super-steep section just above the rope handrail - but this time heading down. After a quick risk assessment I decide to scramble down on all fours like a deranged crab. Just the two points for artistic impression but it does the trick.

Finally, I reach the trailhead and confirm my return with the steward. The steep descent has had its way with my calf muscles, which are now begging for some downtime.

Thankfully, the beach is but a mere ten-minute walk away.

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Itacoatiara Beach

Unlike many other Rio de Janeiro and Niterói beaches, Itacoatiara dispenses with a backdrop of wall-to-wall apartment blocks and hotels in favour of one oozing in natural beauty.

With just a sprinkling of low-level holiday homes and a handful of kiosques (small bar/restaurants) lining the edge of the beach (but mainly hidden from view) there’s also an absence of passing traffic to break the sound of the surf-friendly waves.

It’s undoubtedly our favourite beach here, and one we’ve returned to many times.

Why do we love it so much?

Well, for a start, the sand is fine, white powder and super-clean. The stunning backdrop of Parque Estadual da Serra de Tiririca, with its combination of lush vegetation and bare granite, is matched only by Ipanema. And when the surf is up, the waves crash ashore in thunderous fashion.

In fact, if you’re into surfing - or enjoy watching amateurs and professionals alike do their thing - Itacoatiara Pro is an annual festival on the beach featuring surfers, bodysurfers and bodyboarders.

Of course, good surfing conditions don’t exactly make for safe swimming. However, at the far end of the beach, a lagoon-style section known as Prainha has a safer bathing area more suited to families.

Otherwise, most people opt for a quick, refreshing dip or join an impromptu game of altinha - that ubiquitous Rio beach pastime in which a small group keep a ball in the air using their heads, shoulders, chests and feet.

Getting there

Assuming that you’re based in Rio, the best (and cheapest) way to get to Itacoatiara is on a weekday by ferry and bus.

From the ferry terminal at Praça XV de Novembro, look out for the ferry crossing to Charitas (not Praça Araribóia, which is Niterói’s main terminal). The ferries run regularly on weekdays from 07:00 till 12:00, returning at 30-minute intervals from 16:30 (timetable). There’s no service at weekends.

Once at Charitas, cross the road to the bus stop and catch the OC1 or OC2 bus (OC stands for “Oceanico Atlantico”) to Itacoatiara. You’ll know you’ve arrived when the bus circles a small, blue police station on a roundabout. Get off at the next stop and walk back along Rua Matia Sandri for about ten minutes, until you arrive at the beach.

To go at the weekend you’ll need to take the ferry to Praça Araribóia and pick up the OC1 or OC2 from the bank of bus stops a couple of hundred metres or so to the right. It’s a longer route as the bus takes 20 minutes or so to reach Charitas before heading off to the Atlantic coast. If there’s a group of you, it might be easier to order an Uber instead.

If you have your own wheels there are parking spaces along the road at the back of the beach. Although these get taken up very quickly so you’d be best arriving early.

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You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

Continuing our Isle of Skye road trip three-parter, we leave Part One’s circumnavigation of the Trotternish Peninsula and head west to the equally rugged Duirinish Peninsula and Neist Point.

It’s November. The weather is challenging, to say the least. But the crowds have gone, meaning we’re heavily outnumbered by the native sheep and Highland cattle. Our main concern is whether or not our 16-year-old Ford Focus will survive the brutal potholed roads.

Only one thing for it – turn the radio volume dial up to eleven, shift into top gear and head west. Only the radio doesn’t work. And dodging potholes becomes secondary to avoiding the sheep who, having realised that everyone has left, are now resorting to herding and gossiping in the middle of the road.

At the head of Loch Snizort Beag, just after the small crofting village of Kensaleyre, we turn right from the A87 onto a single-track road that connects with the A850 heading west. It’s a scenic diversion, albeit with the customary obstacle of stubbornly immobile sheep littering the tarmac.

Almost immediately after joining the A850, we take a right at Skeabost for a quick visit to St Columba’s Isle. Dating back to the 11th century, it’s the site of an ancient burial ground for former bishops. And, having been restored in recent years to something resembling its former glory, it features sculptured stones dispersed around a grassy islet on the River Snizort – including one depicting a knight in full armour.

Back on the A850, we continue west on what, by Skye standards, is a smooth, pothole-free two-laned expressway towards Edinbane. Indeed, as recent as just a few years ago this was just a poorly-surfaced single-track road – a sign of how increased tourist numbers have driven the authorities to ramp up the infrastructure spend.

Just before Edinbane we pass the village of Flashader, where we spent two weeks housesitting in a former guesthouse. Overlooking the loch, we were responsible for twelve chickens and five ducks. Which would normally be quite straightforward. Only our chickens had infected legs and needed anti-fungal liquid administered with a toothbrush every third day. Cue happy memories of me on my knees in the mud trying to catch the chickens and a clearly upset cockerel from their coop, then holding them individually while Nicky gave their legs and feet the full pedicure treatment.

Pro tip: don’t even think about picking up a cockerel without holding its wings in place first. And yes, that’s as difficult and stressful as it sounds.

The Waternish Peninsula

Soon, a turning to the right directs us to the Waternish Peninsula. Crossing the stone fairy bridge (as we discovered, Skye has many fairy-somethings, be they glens, pools, bridges, towers or anything else you can pin on a map), we follow the winding single-track road to the pretty village of Stein.

Overlooking the icy-looking water of Loch Bay towards the cliffs opposite and Isay Island beyond, it’s notable for Skye’s oldest pub, The Stein Inn and the Loch Bay fine dining restaurant next door. Both have a fabulous view of the loch from their waterfront position. But the weather on this freezing November day dashes our plans to take advantage of it.

Undaunted, we continue along the road to the furthest point on the peninsula, where there’s a pleasant walk to a lighthouse at Waternish Point.

Over the centuries, the surrounding moorland has seen its fair share of bloody battles between the warring clans of MacLeod and MacDonald. Mainly because of the former wresting control of Skye from the latter during the 14th century. Indeed, there are memorials to past clashes scattered around the countryside. In particular, the notorious 16th century Battle of the Spoiling Dyke, one of the bloodiest in Highland clan history, and which almost wiped out the MacDonalds.

As Mackenzies, it feels like we’re trespassing on sacred land. But an icy blast of Waternish wind brings us back to reality, so we head back along Lochbay Road to the A850.

Dunvegan & Coral Beach

Continuing west, we’re now approaching the heart of MacLeod country, culminating in the dramatic Duirinish Peninsula. But, before then, we arrive at Dunvegan, situated at the head of the long sea loch of the same name. With its guest houses, restaurants and tourism infrastructure it’s a good option for staying overnight. Especially given its proximity to the famous Dunvegan Castle, just a mile along the coast road.

The Chiefs of the MacLeod Clan have called the castle “home” for more than 700 years. Which looks quite the status symbol given its beautiful towers and striking position overlooking the loch. However, the original 13th-century version was consigned to history after its mock-medieval makeover in 1840. Nevertheless, it’s one of Scotland’s most visited castles.

Particularly famous is the Fairy Tower, which holds the three great MacLeod treasures.

Pride of place goes to the Fairy Flag. According to legend, an early Clan chief married a woman from the fairy world and they had a child. Pressured by her fairy kin to return her to the fold, the couple had to separate (saying their reluctant goodbyes at Fairy Bridge in Waternish), only for her to return one night after hearing the cries of her sick child. She wrapped the baby in a fine cloth, which became known as the “Fairy Flag” bearing three magical qualities – 1) when spread on a bed it would grant children; 2) when hoisted at the castle it would entice herring into the loch; and 3) when it was waved in battle, victory would be ensured. Apparently, young clansmen in the armed forces even carried photos of the flag with them as a lucky charm during the Second World War.

The two other treasures are the Dunvegan Horn and the Dunvegan Cup, which you can read about here.

As luck would have it, the castle is closed on our visit (it’s only open from April to October). But we can still appreciate its wonderful setting between the loch and the wooded hillside from a number of viewpoints further along the road.

Indeed, the road to Claigan and its coral beaches is a stunner, with views across the loch to the Duirinish Peninsula, speckled with white croft houses peering out from the pinks, oranges and greens of the landscape. And, to our left, clouds hover the twin plateaus of the MacLeod Tables like smoke billowing from active volcanoes.

The end of the road dovetails into a car park for the short coastal trail to the “coral” beaches of Claigan. We’d heard much about the almost Caribbean-like sand. But, instead of finely ground coral, the sand here consists of maerl – or calcified local seaweed. And in truth, on a stormy November morning, it looks like it. Still, it’s a peaceful, windswept place to linger a while. And a short walk to the top of the hill behind the main beach provides some good views of the beaches and the islands to the west.

To be fair, it probably needs some summer sunshine to see it at its best. When, by all accounts, you’d need to arrive early to find a parking space because of the crowds descending on it.

Colbost & Glendale

Returning to Dunvegan, we continue through the village on the A863 towards Sligachan. A mile outside the centre, a right-hand turn takes us onto the B884 at Lonmore and heads straight toward the MacLeod Tables.

We’re back in the land of single track lanes, with regular passing places and potholes big enough to devour an unsuspecting campervan. It all suddenly seems very remote as the road winds through flat marsh and peatland.

In fact peatlands, created through the combination of dying plants and waterlogged ground, cover almost 20% of Scotland. Due to the lack of oxygen, the plants fail to fully decompose and eventually form compact peat. As an alternative fuel to coal, it’s in plentiful supply. As we can see by the pallets of peat bricks in the fields beside the road.

We’ve now reached the opposite side of Loch Dunvegan and, as the road gradually rises, the unmistakeable towers of Dunvegan Castle reappear. This time peering above the marshy Colbost Islands in the foreground.

We’ve arrived at Colbost, another crofting community whose claim to fame is its Michellin-starred restaurant, The Three Chimneys. Regularly cited as one of the best restaurants in Scotland, it’s a little too pricey for our meagre budget. A claim that’s reinforced when a helicopter lands beside the car park delivering a couple of lunchtime diners in style. Even if you’re not planning on dining there, take a look at their website as it includes some great drone footage of Skye.

Looking out over Loch Dunvegan it’s easy to picture the anchored steamers delivering supplies from Glasgow to Colbost well into the early 20th century. And the convoy of rowing boats dispatched to pick up essential goods – particularly the whisky stored in large stone jars.

Colbost was also the site of our second Skye housesit – this time a three-week stint looking after 50-or-so chickens, ducks and geese. Unfortunately, it coincided with a mink on the loose hellbent on decimating our flock. And, not exactly endearing ourselves to the owners at The Three Chimneys, one of our geese was so spooked that it spent a night perched on the restaurant roof. Suffice to say, we soon developed rose-tinted memories of treating diseased chicken feet in Flashader.

Accommodation

If B&B accommodation in an elevated position overlooking Loch Dunvegan is something you’d be interested in we can thoroughly recommend Hazelbank B&B in Upper Colbost. Although we didn’t actually stay there, we got to know the owners during our time at the nearby housesit.

And, for us, the whisky tasting session with Mark & Pam in their dedicated tasting bar has reached legendary status.

Beyond Colbost the road eventually turns inland and delivers a stretch with a set of potholes worthy of a special prize. We can only imagine how inexperienced campervan drivers manage to negotiate the narrow road without losing a wheel or two. Especially when it gets icy. Which is probably one of the reasons why much of it appears to have disintegrated.

We’re now heading down into a valley housing the crofting community of Glendale. It’s another scene of rolling hills dotted with white croft houses and leads to the coastal cliffs of northwest Skye.

If you’re unfamiliar with the concept of crofting, it’s a system of micro-scale farming and is a feature of Scotland’s North West Highlands and Islands. On Skye alone, there are over 2,000 crofts, helping to maintain a sustainable localised economy and representing an important part of the island’s culture.

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Neist Point Lighthouse

After passing through Glendale we reach a turning on our left near Milovaig, which takes us over moorland to the Skye’s westernmost extremity at Neist Point.

Before we arrive at the end of the road, we pull off into a small parking area at Loch Mor. Ahead we can just make out a faint hiking trail to the 300-metre peak of Waterstein Head, the second-highest sea cliff in Scotland. Despite the wind and initial boggy conditions, we follow the trail as it climbs steeply above the loch.

From here onwards, the view across the moorland to Neist Point gets increasingly dramatic, accentuated by the rapid movement of shadow and light as blocks of clouds hurry across the sky like busy commuters at rush hour.

The unmistakable shape of Neist Point’s tiny peninsula, with its thorn-like cliff, stretches away from us into a calm, blue sea. A white dot near the end represents the famous lighthouse which appears on so many travel guide photographs of Skye – probably second only to the Old Man Of Storr.

We continue upwards, always near the edge, until we arrive at the summit. Welcomed by gusts of wind threatening to blow us off our feet (and quite possibly over the edge), we find a suitable boulder to hold on to and take in the astonishing view.

To our left, the huge cliffs continue around a bay, shrouded in a misty spray from the crashing waves below. Peering down over the edge, I’m overcome by a familiar tingling sensation, rendering my legs almost useless. Increasing my grip on the boulder, I turn around to face Neist Point directly ahead. As one of Skye’s biggest attractions, it draws crowds of campervans and tour buses. But, up here, it feels like we’ve discovered a remote, still-undiscovered part of the world.

It’s possible to continue walking beyond Waterstein Head and along the cliffs to Ramasaig. But those gusts of wind are only likely to get worse, we figure, so we take the safe option and head back down. Though you can rest assured we’ll return to do the full clifftop hike next time around.

MORE ON THE WATERSTEIN HEAD TRAIL

Distance: 4 km (2.5 miles) return Time: 2 hours Car Park: free Type: There and back Difficulty: Moderate Terrain: Moorland, boggy at the beginning, steep in parts and runs close to the cliff edge at times

Back in the car, we complete the short trip to Neist Point, where the final section of road is widened to accommodate plenty of parking spaces – although these fill up quickly during the summer season.

To our left, we can see the mass of Waterstein Head, its massive vertigo-inducing cliffs looking even more dramatic from below. A short walk to the end of the road takes us down to a junction of sorts. A trail directly head drops steeply towards the lighthouse (which is still out of sight), while a boggy trail to our right leads to a vantage point beloved of landscape photographers and sunset lovers.

In front of us is a metal hoist, used back in the day to winch supplies up and down from a corresponding hoist near the lighthouse. The trail down – after a steep initial drop – is pretty level for much of the way and takes about 30 minutes. It feels a little underwhelming when compared to the Waterstein Head experience – a quick walk around the lighthouse (we can’t go inside) and headland surrounding it and we’re ready to head back up again.

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Much more interesting is the second trail to the vantage point along the cliffs. During the summer season, people flock here for sunset and to take one of Skye’s most iconic photographs. From here the lighthouse appears at the very end of the finger of headland, seemingly pointing toward the sun as it falls beneath the watery horizon.

On our November visit the sun is already setting by late afternoon and we begin to understand what all the fuss is about. Only at this time of the year, there’s just one lonely photographer to keep us company. To the right of the lighthouse a thin band of cloud hovers over the island of Benbecula, its mountainous profile silhouetted under an orange sky.

Finally, the sun disappears from view and a final gust of wind confirms that it’s time for us to depart.

Having travelled to Skye’s northern and western extremities, we’re ready to head south to sample some of the island’s other delights. The weather forecast suggests plenty of sunshine and freezing temperatures. Just the right combination to explore the lower sections of the famous Cuillin Hills.

And, of course, to sample some of Skye’s smoky single-malt whisky

Coming next in Part Three.

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An Isle Of Skye Road Trip: Part 1 – The Trotternish Loop

10 Fabulous Isle Of Skye Viewpoints

The Magnificent St Abbs Head Coastal Walk

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

Along with the North Coast (NC) 500 route, an Isle of Skye road trip is a Scottish rite of passage for many who visit the rainswept Highlands.

The fabled “Misty Isle” is by no means an easy drive, though – mainly due to an explosion in tourist numbers over the past two decades. But, if you look past the craterous potholes, the narrow single-lane tracks, the amateur hour attempts at using passing spaces, the horrible over-crowding and the notoriously fickle weather, we promise you’ll have a blast.

As long as you remember patience is very much your friend.

Overall, we spent six weeks house sitting on the island during October and November, when most high-season tourists had gone. Luckily, we had our own car, which meant we could pick our days to venture out when the weather forecast was a positive one (or, in reality, less than abysmal). And, in that time, we explored much of the island, given the limitations of the relatively short late-autumn days and the seasonal closure of many attractions and restaurants.

In this first of three articles, we’ve combined our exploits into one continuous road trip. Starting in Portree, Skye’s capital, we follow the road north into the Trotternish Peninsula before heading (in Part Two) to the island’s most westerly tip at Neist Point and (in Part Three) south towards the majestic Cuillin Hills. Along the way, there are some cultural and historically significant sights. But most road-trippers are here because of the jaw-dropping scenery and fabulous walking opportunities. Of which there is so much.

So, without further ado, let’s fasten our imaginary seatbelt, switch on the ignition and take a deep breath as we head off on an Isle of Skye road trip for the ages.

Portree

If you’re spending any time on Skye, chances are you’ll be sleeping at least one night in Portree. After all, it’s the island’s capital and has the most variety of hotels, B&Bs and restaurants. Although it’s full to the rafters during the uber-busy summer months.

The harbour area is lined with pastel-coloured cottages – a nod to its original status as a simple fishing village. And, for the road tripper, it scores highly for having one of the island’s few petrol stations. Not to mention a decent supermarket for those last-minute essentials.

But, for our road trip, it serves as a convenient starting point for the Trotternish Peninsula.

Loch Fada

The A855 out of Portree is a gentle introduction to some of the more challenging terrain ahead. The road climbs slowly away from the town until it morphs into a snaking single-track road with passing places.

Five minutes in and the iconic Skye image of The Old Man of Storr makes its first appearance away in the distance. It’s a 55-metre pinnacle standing proud at the end of a section of the Trotternish Ridge. And, before it, the calm waters of Loch Fada, with its tiny island as a focal point.

As the road begins to descend on the loch we pull over to the right where a small clearing provides enough room for perhaps two cars to park. The view from there is an Instagram favourite for a reason. And, even though the weather is heavily overcast, shafts of sunlight break from the clouds and dance around the ridge.

The Old Man Of Storr

Hungry for more, we return to our car and head onwards as the road widens and hugs the loch, passing Bride’s Veil Falls on our left.

Also to our left, the imposing Trotternish Ridge (which runs almost the entire peninsula) is upon us. Created by a base layer of clay giving way under the weight of 60 million-year-old volcanic rock, the ridge is what remains after the huge landslip that followed. Meanwhile, Skye’s infamous weather has gone to work carving pinnacles and other bizarre rock formations like some celestial sculptor.

The Old Man himself is without doubt Skye’s most famous pinnacle. From the official car park (£6 fee in 2024) on the A855, it’s a two-hour round trip walk to the viewing point. A good proportion of it is steep. And the outbursts of rain, combined with the gusts of wind, make the going a little tough. But the payoff is a fabulous view of the Old Man against a background of the Storr Lochs and the islands of South Rona and Raasay beyond.

MORE ON THE OLD MAN OF STORR HIKE

Distance: 3.5 km Time: 2 hours Car Park: £6 (Nov 2024) Type: There and back Difficulty: Moderate Terrain: Gravel path, steep in parts

Suitably awed by the Old Man’s otherworldliness, we continue north along the A855 for three miles, before pulling off at the Tobhta Uachdrach viewpoint. Once home to a thriving community, the area’s residents were forced from their land to make way for sheep farming, many of whom emigrated during the early 19th century to North and South Carolina, USA and Canada. Nowadays it serves as an elevated viewpoint of the coastline, mainland Scotland and an alternative view of the Old Man of Storr.

Next, we skip the opportunity to walk to Lealth Falls by heading towards Staffin. A large car park on our right announces we’ve arrived at the cleverly-monikered Kilt Rock, which – as you’ve surely worked out – is a series of cliffs featuring enormous, hexagonal columns of basalt resembling a tartan kilt. Pride of place, though, is the stunning waterfall tumbling from the cliff face to the rocky beach some 60 metres below.

A couple of miles beyond, Staffin is a good option for an overnight stay. Featuring the whitewashed, grey-roofed croft cottages so typical of Skye, it’s an obvious place to stop for easy access to The Quiraing and the Trotternish Ridge. And there’s the added bonus of discovering dino footprints on nearby An Corran Beach.

The Quiraing

We carry on through Staffin and take a left (signposted “The Quiraing”). The largely single-track road is increasingly narrow, steep and twisting, with passing spaces alternating on each side. Suffice to say, it brings us into contact for the first time with Skye’s legion of less-than-competent tourist drivers.

Road etiquette in these parts dictates that if you’re in a better position to pull into a passing space than the driver ahead, pull over to the space on your left. Or stop adjacent to the space on the right and let the oncoming driver slip into it as you pass. For Brits and anybody else who normally drives on the left, that’s pretty obvious.

Not so for those visitors whose countries insist on driving to the right. Indeed, it only takes one bright spark who believes “right is right” to massacre the procession of cars, camper vans and tour buses. And so it is on the route up to the Quiraing.

After much arm waving, head shaking and righteous indignation, we finally make it to the car park on the brow of the ridge. Our entrance is temporarily delayed by three kilted gentlemen in their finest, posing for photographs with a small group of excited teenagers.

From the car park, we have two choices. Take the steep hiker-free path to our right along the edge of the ridge to Bioda Buidhe, or follow the tourist trail on our left to the Quiraing viewpoint. Opting for the latter, we find ourselves at the viewpoint within five minutes. In front of us, a flattish path follows the foot of the ridge until it dissects two spires in the distance. To our left, a series of stone steps zig-zag their way up the escarpment. And, in between, the precipitous Trotternish Ridge connects the two.

The Quiraing itself is partially hidden from view. A collection of pinnacles and bizarre rock formations, it’s best known for its three most notable features – The Needle (a 37-metre-high standalone pinnacle), The Prison (a fortress-like rocky outcrop) and The Table (a hidden plateau in an ampitheatre high up on the ridge). Back in the day, farmers hid their cattle and sheep within the confines of the Table from marauding Vikings. And even played football games up there. A film plot that, mercifully, Mel Gibson seems to have overlooked after his fact-free rampage through the William Wallace story in Braveheart.

MORE ON THE QUIRAING HIKE

Distance: 6.8 km Time: 2.5 hours Car Park: £3 for 3 hours; £5 for 6 hours (Nov 2024) Type: Loop Difficulty: Moderate Terrain: Gravel and rocky path, boggy section on ridge, steep in parts

READ MORE: The Isle Of Skye Quiraing Walk

Bioda Buidhe

Rather than return to our car, we skip over the Staffin-Uig road and head up the loose footpath along the edge of the opposite ridge. It’s a steep climb but comes with ever-increasing panoramic views of the Quiraing as the Needle and Prison rock formations fade into the distance.

Peering over the edge, we see the twin lochs of Leum nu Luirginn and Cleat rippling in the wind. And, as we continue upwards, sheer drops look down on dramatic rocky outcrops surrounded by a sea of green.

In stark contrast to the Quiraing hike, we have the place to ourselves. One of the advantages of such a breathtaking trail lurking in the shadow of one of Skye’s must-do attractions.

The summit at Bioda Buide is a further 20-minute climb that’s steeper again. But the views through a gulley and beyond the twin lochs toward the Quiraing are sensational. And, to our right, the Trotternish Ridge carves its way south beyond the now-familiar sight of the Old Man of Storr.

If anything, this is the best view of the Quiraing. But any hopes of lingering for a while are dashed as Skye’s fickle weather delivers an approaching cloud of mist and rain. Figuring that an edge-of-the-ridge descent in those conditions would be pushing our luck, we head back on a more direct, but boggy route to the safety of our car.

MORE ON THE BIODA BUIDHE HIKE

Distance: 2 km Time: 1 hour Car Park: £6 (Nov 2024) Type: There and back Difficulty: Moderate Terrain: Moorland path, not well-marked, steep

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Rubha Hunish & The North Coast

Returning to the A855, the road continues to hug the east coast as it passes the village of Flodigarry before curving westwards around the northern extremity of the ridge. It feels like we’ve arrived at the end of the world, where the only signs of life are the croft houses, fields of sheep and the occasional brightly-coloured Highland Cow.

At the 24-mile mark north of Portree, the lush green landscape, dotted with neutral white and grey croft houses, is abruptly interrupted by the appearance of a shocking red phone box. Quite what it’s doing on the corner of a junction in the middle of nowhere is anybody’s guess. But it does serve as the starting point for the Skye Trail, a seriously challenging hike that runs the length of the island.

We take a right at the phone box and park at the entrance for the trail to Rubha Hunish, Skye’s most northerly point. The size of the car park (it’s tiny) provides a clue as to how many other hikers we’ll bump into today.

The easy trail snakes through moorland, overlooking a narrow offshore island and the ruins of Duntulm Castle to our left. 30 minutes later we arrive at a small, white square building perched near the cliff edge. Back in the day, it was used as a coastguard lookout – and, at first glance, it looks like it’ll mark the end of the trail.

But, peering over the edge, we look down on the peninsula of Rubha Hunish pointing like an index finger from the 100-metre cliffs towards the Outer Hebridean island of Harris, its grassy moorland interspersed with pockets of miniature lochs.

The route down looks impossible from here, but to the left, an access trail traverses the cliffs (it’s not as daunting as it first looks) and leads us down to the headland. We’re greeted by a small group of sheep who bestow upon us a contemptuous stare for having the audacity to interrupt their idyllic grazing.

Ignoring them, we follow the footpath around the perimeter of the headland, losing ourselves in a rugged landscape of gullies, sea stacks and arches, while guillemots, shags and razorbills chatter and compare wing sizes on the rocks below.

After the relative crowds at The Old Man of Storr and the Quiraing, this feels like untouched Skye. The raw beauty of the headland, the crashing surf and the din from the sea birds combine to make its northernmost tip a special place to linger.

MORE ON THE RUBHA HUNISH HIKE

Distance: 7 km Time: 3 hours Car Park: Free (Nov 2024) Type: Loop Difficulty: Easy-moderate Terrain: Moorland path, mostly gentle incline with one steep section

Beyond the lonely red post box, the A855 continues to wind its way along the north coast as the landscape changes once again. To our right are views across to the Outer Hebrides. But, to our left, as we’re now travelling on the opposite side of the Trotternish Ridge, the once ever-present sloping escarpment has disappeared.

We circle a headland overlooking the harbour at Uig, which serves as Skye’s ferry port for the Outer Hebrides. A glance at our map shows we’re close to the Isle of Skye Brewing Company, which raises some excitement for the non-driver in our party. However, excitement turns to crashing disappointment when we arrive at its premises on the harbour, only to find it’s merely a bottle shop rather than the brewery’s tap room.

The Fairy Glen

Just beyond Uig, a sharp left turn from the A87 leads to Balnaknock (translated from Gaelic as Village in the Hills). Better known (or marketed) as The Fairy Glen because of its curious landscape of cone-shaped hillocks and its centrepiece, Castle Ewen, a rocky outcrop resembling a fairie castle.

Of all the sights we’ve seen to date, this one is perhaps the most underwhelming. But the clamber up to the top of the “castle” provides a 360-degree view of the glen, with its distant waterfalls adding a certain mystic charm.

Although the Instagrammable fairy stone circle at the base of the castle is clearly nothing more than a collective piece of “art” cobbled together by over-enthusiastic visitors.

Back on the A87, we continue on the coastal loop back towards Portree. However, we’re not ready to return just yet. On our right, the wonderfully named Loch Snizort Beag separates us from our route to the northwest of the island.

It’s where our housesit accommodation is based.

It’s where castles, white coral beaches and mighty cliff walks rule.

And it’s where the phrase “potholed roads” doesn’t even begin to describe the driving conditions we’re about to encounter.

All in Part Two, coming soon.

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10 Fabulous Isle Of Skye Viewpoints

The Magnificent St Abbs Head Coastal Walk

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

The Isle Of Skye Quiraing walk is one of those tick-the-box experiences that everyone should enjoy on a visit to Scotland’s Misty Isle. And, judging by the crowds that turn up in campervans and tourist buses, that’s exactly what most visitors do.

The full Quiraing circuit has its tougher sections. But any mobile person can at least experience enough of the amazing landscape to come away with a smile the size of Scotland.

Of course, this being western Scotland, how much of the landscape you can expect to see is in the lap of the weather gods. We were lucky enough to be able to spend most of October and November on the island, so we could pick our moments when the biting wind and rain had gone. But, even then, the weather changed dramatically over the course of a few hours.

The Quiraing forms part of the spectacular 35km-long Trotternish Ridge, which runs the length of the peninsula bearing the same name, and incorporates Skye’s other iconic walk to the Old Man of Storr. Believe us when we say neither should be missed. No matter the weather.

In this article, we describe our experience completing the trail and provide an insight into what you can expect.

Arrival at the Quiraing Car Park

Although it’s possible to hike from the car park on the main east coast road near Flodigarry, most people head to the dedicated Quiraing car park instead. From Portree, there are two ways to get there.

The quickest route is to take a left turn off the west coast A855 just beyond Staffin. As the road ascends it gets increasingly narrower, steeper and twistier, making it unsuitable for larger campervans. Mainly because traffic bottlenecks on Skye run a close second to the ferocious summer midges as its least welcome feature.

As an alternative, along the west coast of the peninsula, the A87 connects with the A855, from which a narrow but fairly level road twists its way to the pay-and-display car park.

As of November 2024, it costs £3 to park for three hours, or £5 for six hours. Although it’s possible to complete the circuit within three hours, if you want to linger a while and take in the views, you might need some extra time. So, if you don’t fancy testing how keen the car park operators are at handing out fines (and they do!), suck it up and pay the extra £2 instead.

If you don’t have your own wheels, you can book a tour from Portree or hire your own guide. Skye’s limited public transport doesn’t venture up there, but the #57 bus from Portree will drop you off at Flodigarry.

To the Quiraing viewpoint

Our mid-morning arrival at the car park is met with an animated blue sky as pockets of dark clouds scuttle across from right to left. Ahead, the road twists and turns below us on its way down toward the shore. To our right, we spot several dark matchstick figures climbing the grassy escarpment leading to the plateau at Biode Buidhe. And, to our left (where we’ll be heading), a well-worn pathway leads to the first Quiraing viewpoint, just 200 metres away.

The horseshoe-shaped viewing area is not a place of solitude, however. We seem to have arrived at the same time as a bus-load of tourists hell-bent on getting perfect selfies in front of some of Scotland’s finest scenery.

To our left, we spot a series of stone steps zig-zagging their way up an escarpment. Meanwhile, in front of us, a flatter path follows the foot of the ridge until it dissects two spires in the distance. These are two of the Quiraing’s most famous rock formations – the Needle and the Prison (which we’ll return to later).

It’s one of Skye’s most iconic views. And it’s where you might choose to stop if the weather is particularly bad. Indeed, many visitors don’t go any further than this before returning to their tour bus.

The climb to the ridge

From the viewpoint, we have the option to take the lower path past the spires and then up along the ridge. But we decide to take a clockwise route by climbing up to the ridge first (via the nearby steps) and returning on the lower path. Mainly because we want to take advantage of the clearer sky before the mist and clouds roll in.

The climb up is a lung-busting one, punctuated by regular stops. Happily, they allow us to turn around and wonder at the ever-changing scenery behind us.

The scale of the Trotternish Ridge is now in full view. The gently sloping landscape to our left sweeps up from the shoreline before crashing into the sheer volcanic rock of the ridge, which now snakes away into the distance.

Meanwhile, the twin lochs of Cleat and Leum nu Luirginn resemble footprints in the boggy marshland left behind by some imaginary giant.

As our first experience of walking in Skye, it’s an exhilarating moment. And one that spurs us on to complete our climb as the steps finally give way to a marked path.

The path leads steadily upwards and past small herds of grazing sheep. The views out to sea improve with every metre, culminating in the blue expanse of Hebridean water known as The Minch ending abruptly as the craggy, snow-covered mountains of the Scottish mainland paint the sky.

Given our experience in Skye this far, we’d decided to wear Wellington boots for this hike. After all, the combination of boggy trails and very wet weather is not one to take lightly. And, as it turns out, the next section is a bog-lover’s paradise.

We reach a gate where the well-trodden path ends and the bog-fest begins. Four young American hikers on their way down, resplendent in their knee-high boggy mud, compliment us on our choice of footwear. We try to hide our smugness and assess how we’ll tackle the route ahead. We can see the top of the ridge. And all that stands between it and us is open moorland scarred by the muddy trails of sheep and hikers who’ve gone before.

In the end, we simply wing it and trust our boots to withstand the squelching, muddy bog. And it’s a bit of a slog for 15 minutes or so. But then we arrive at the summit, where the drier, firmer ground feels like a huge welcome mat.

The Quiraing

We find ourselves standing at the edge of the ridge overlooking a sheer drop to a flat, grassy area surrounded by a mighty wall of rock towers and pinnacles. Almost immediately, the unmistakeable onset of mild vertigo takes hold as the increasing wind threatens to take us for a much closer look.

We’ve arrived at the Quiraing (from the Norse Kví Rand – meaning “round fold or pen”), a craterous area which is only viewable to most people from this vantage point (it’s possible to walk up to it from the lower path but the route consists of very steep shingle and can be dangerous).

The grassy plateau is known as The Table, which (according to legend) was often used by local people hundreds of years ago to hide cattle from would-be raiders. It’s a unique, almost alien landscape befitting of a Tolkien novel. And one that we agree is worth spending some time to explore.

We continue along the edge of the ridge as the angle of the rock formations changes, revealing hidden layers. Then across steep gulleys and onto rocky ledges for photographs of the Quiraing from as many viewpoints as possible. All the while we keep our hopes up we might spot a marauding dinosaur or a mighty dragon swooping amongst the rock towers.

Alas, no such luck. Although it hasn’t stopped film-makers using the surreal location as a backdrop in movies such as The BFG, King Arthur: Legend Of The Sword, Macbeth and Stardust.

Completing the circuit

Continuing past the Quiraing, the scenery completely changes as the northernmost cliffs of the Trotternish Ridge come into view, along with the coastline of northern Skye and the islands of Lewis and Harris beyond. It’s one of the reasons why we reckon it’s better to take this clockwise route of the Quiraing circuit rather than the other way round.

The footpath leads very close to the edge of the ridge with sheer drops to the lower path below. Understandably, we heed the warnings about continuing erosion and tackle the section with care.

A wooden stile marks the trail’s halfway point where the upper path meets its lower altitude partner and the route back to the car park.

After being exposed to the elements until now, we find ourselves sheltered by the sheer cliffs of the ridge to our right. But the trail becomes extremely muddy again, requiring us to venture “off-piste” more than once.

The scenery here is less interesting than that we’ve seen so far as the trail continues along the foot of the ridge. Above us, swirls of mist gather around the ridge’s summit. And ahead, the bright red of a hiker’s jacket is the only splash of contrast against a wall of green vegetation and black basalt rock.

We eventually reach a shingle section with a steep drop to two of the Quiraing’s other iconic rock formations.

To our left, The Prison, with its three summits, is said to resemble the shape of a fortress. And, to our right, the 37-metre pinnacle known as The Needle stands alone like a giant, celestial knife plunged into the earth.

We can make out an extremely steep footpath amongst the scree that heads beyond The Needle (and up to the area around The Table). It looks precarious. And judging by the looseness of the shingle on the main footpath, it probably is.

Instead, we continue beyond The Prison as the scenery opens out once more, showcasing the twin lochs of Cleat and Leum nu Luirginn and the dramatic ridge of Biode Buidhe in front of us.

Final thoughts

The circuit takes between two and three hours to complete, depending on the weather, your fitness level and how much you want to linger en route.

The first stepped section up to the ridge is tough going for 20-30 minutes. If that feels like too much, then we’d suggest taking the lower path as far as The Prison and returning the same way.

If the weather is poor or changeable (which is pretty likely), you might also consider taking the shorter, easier route. And be prepared to abandon your hike if the weather suddenly deteriorates!

However, if you’ve completed the trail and are ready for something more, consider crossing to the other side of the car park and following the steep path to Biode Buidhe. Along the way, there are more lochs, clifftop views and staggering rock formations to keep you entertained.

Best of all, though, the views back to the Quiraing highlight the sheer majesty of what is surely one of Scotland’s most beautiful landscapes.

FAQs

How to pronounce Quiraing

The Quiraing is pronounced “kuh-RAYNG”

How do I get from Portree to The Quiraing?

The easiest way to get there is by car – follow the main road toward Staffin and then take a left turn just after Staffin (signposted “The Quiraing”) up to the car park.

The #57 bus travels from Portree to the car park at Flodigarry, from where a trail will take you up The Quiraing circuit.

You can also get there on an organised tour or with your own guide.

How long is the Quiraing walk?

The circuit is 6.8 km (4.2 miles) long and takes between two to three hours to complete, depending on your fitness levels and desire to keep moving. And, of course, the weather!

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

Part 1: What Is House Sitting?

Basically, it’s a “quid pro quo” arrangement by which volunteers (house sitters) look after the homes and pets of homeowners while they’re away, in return for rent-free accommodation.

Usually, the homeowner, or “host”, will also cover the cost of utilities such as gas, electricity, internet etc. So, as a house sitter, your financial commitment is effectively limited to your own transportation and living costs. Where the host does need a financial contribution, they will usually stipulate as such in their listing.

Disclosure: This page contains affiliate links, which means that if you ultimately make a purchase, we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. And it helps to keep our content free!

What’s in it for the homeowner?

For a moment, put yourself into the shoes of a homeowner who is planning to go away on holiday for a couple of weeks and is considering taking on a house sitter to look after their home and pets until they get back. On the face of it, you might think there are too many risks associated with letting complete strangers into your home and expecting them to look after it to the same degree as yourself. Not to mention giving them access to your personal belongings and entrusting them with the welfare of your pets.

But consider the alternatives.

Owners are not always comfortable about leaving their pets with expensive commercial kennels and catteries. After all, they’re not necessarily the best environments for keeping pets happy and healthy, anyway. Particularly if the owners are away from home often, or for long periods of time.

And there are other owners who have geese, chickens, sheep, goats, horses etc who simply don’t have the option of off-site carers.

It’s not just about the animals, either. Owners don’t necessarily like the idea of locking up their empty homes and switching everything off for possibly months at a time.

We’ve also encountered owners of holiday homes who just want someone (or a couple) to look after their business while they’re away. In these cases, there’s usually separate living accommodation close to the holiday home itself. And there are even opportunities to earn some money at the same time.

What’s in it for the house sitter?

Comfortable accommodation in a chosen location at a fraction of the cost of a normal holiday rental, hotel or other means of accommodation. And because it’s not typically geared to tourism you can experience what living like a local is all about.

For animal lovers, it’s an opportunity to look after and care for a range of pets on a temporary basis.

It’s not suited to those who’re continually on the move and want to fit in as many tourist sights as they possibly can. However, for those who want to travel slowly and immerse themselves in the local culture, it’s an extremely low-cost and efficient way of travelling.

What can you expect from a sit?

From city apartments to rural farmhouses, mobile homes to off-the-grid complexes, simple townhouses to grandiose mansions, and mountain retreats to beachside villas, the range of housesits you can apply for is endless.

Obviously, how the house is equipped will vary from host to host so you may need to ask about certain requirements. For instance, we always require internet access, so it becomes a deal-breaker for us if none is available.

Most sits come complete with at least one pet to look after. Often there are a few. Sometimes there’s enough to fill an ark. And, just occasionally, there are sits that are pet-free.

Sometimes you’ll be asked to do some maintenance work around the house and grounds. Again, this could range from watering the plants and weeding the garden to maintaining the swimming pool and fixing the generator.

You’ll find sits that are as short as just one day. And you’ll discover sits that are as long as a year, or even more.

And, normally, you’ll have to provide your own transport while you’re there, but sometimes there’ll be a car or bicycle available for you to use. Especially in the more remote locations where a car is essential.

The point is that no two sits are alike. You’re effectively placing yourself inside the life of your host, with all the personal preferences and little quirks that go with it.

Some examples of housesits we’ve completed

95% of our housesits have involved pets. But we’ve also had the occasional sit where we’ve simply provided security for the house and/or looked after indoor plants etc. Like the three-week sit we recently completed in Cornwall, England.

As you’d expect, the majority of pets we’ve looked after have been cats and dogs. But we’ve also cared for geese, ducks, chickens, parrots, guinea fowl, guinea pigs, rabbits and donkeys.

Then there was our first experience of looking after horses. Two Arabian horses to be precise. Which required an altogether different set of skills. Not to mention hard work!

Some sits have come with (very) large gardens. Most of which have had gardeners employed to tend to them. But, occasionally, we‘ve needed to step up and maintain them ourselves.

We’ve learned how to clean and maintain swimming pools in the Caribbean, Panama, France and Spain. Which obviously comes with the added perk of spending time inside them!

We’ve encountered the odd natural disaster. Such as a direct lightning strike on our house in Panama. And the largest Atlantic hurricane to ever make landfall – deadly Hurricane Irma, which struck the British Virgin Islands during our sit there in 2017.

Otherwise, most of our sits have been trouble-free, requiring nothing more taxing than walking the dog once or twice a day or clearing out the cat’s litter tray.

What will homeowners expect of you?

Most homeowners’ expectations are that you just provide their pets with as much care and attention as they’d normally receive and that you treat their home with respect.

Beyond that, they might want you to get in touch with them occasionally and do the odd maintenance job around the house.

On rare occasions, their expectations might be too much for you to accept. Or maybe outside of your skill or comfort zone. For instance, being responsible for administering medications or cutting claws.

Otherwise, they’ll encourage you to get out and enjoy your time there.

Just don’t view it as a holiday. It’s not. Of course, you’ll have the opportunity to explore your surroundings while you’re there. But you’ll not always be free to do what you want. Nor will you be able to just come and go as you please. However, you can opt to choose a housesit that suits your preferred lifestyle. For instance, choosing one with a cat that spends most of its time outside is going to need less attention than one with a dog that has medical needs or who suffers from separation anxiety.

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Remember your first priority is always the welfare of the pets in your care

In most circumstances, it’s the reason why you’re there.

Dogs might need walking two or three times a day. Cats may need to be let in and out of the house. There may be medical needs to attend to. And they will certainly demand your personal care and attention.

However, it’s not a one-way street. Hosts appreciate that you also need your own time and accept that you won’t be at home 24/7. Establishing the ground rules before you accept the assignment is always a good idea.

So, do you think you’re suited to house sitting?

A good way of finding out if house sitting is for you is to try it out with friends and family first. Perhaps look after someone’s house and pet while they’re away for the night or the weekend.

Or perhaps take a look at one or two free-to-download copies of the excellent House Sitting Magazine for inspiration.

Otherwise, ask yourself….

Do you enjoy being around animals?

Would you be comfortable staying in somebody else’s home while they’re not there?

Could you handle taking responsibility for somebody else’s possessions and pets?

Are you practical? If something goes wrong or needs attention could you fix it or have the capacity to find someone who could?

And can you deal with crises? You need to be prepared for something going wrong. As we found out in 2017 when Hurricane Irma struck during our sit in the British Virgin Islands!

If your answers to the above are “yes” then house sitting could very well change your life.

Part 2: How To Get Your First House Sit

OK, as you’ve now made it to Part 2, we assume you did actually answer “yes” to that last question and might consider giving it a try.

But how do you go about finding a suitable housesit and what steps should you take to make sure you stand the best chance of getting accepted for it.

Register with one or more house sitting websites

As a “first-timer” your access point will be via one or more recognised websites that bring together communities of homeowners and house sitters for a quarterly or annual subscription.

When a house sitting “assignment” is listed by the owner, applications are then submitted by prospective house sitters registered with that particular website. Sometimes the owner will advertise on more than one website. Other times they won’t list their property at all but search through the registered housesitter profiles and select the people they’d like to contact directly. As a newbie, you’ll almost definitely need to submit the application yourself.

There are some well-established sites, along with a few relative newcomers. Of course, the well-established ones typically have the most listings and in turn, the most registrations. Which means lots of competition. So it might be worthwhile registering with both a popular international site and a location-specific one to keep your options open.

By far the biggest player is Trusted Housesitters, although they’re also the most expensive (currently $129 per year for the basic subscription – see below). But if you want the greatest selection of sits to choose from then you’re getting what you pay for. Indeed, they’re our go-to site for sits all over the world and we can thoroughly recommend them for first-timers and experienced sitters alike.

The sheer number of homeowners registered on the site means that there’s always a huge range of housesits to choose from. Not only that, but the two-way rating system means that you can check reviews from previous housesitters before you apply for an assignment. And the more sits you complete, the more reviews from homeowners you can potentially add to your own profile, which in turn increases your chances of landing future sits.

The basic plan is $129 per year, but you can also opt for enhanced subscriptions at $169 and $259 per year. However, you can secure a special 20% discount on the first year’s membership by clicking on the logo below. Or you can simply browse the currently available sits for free.

As a second option for UK housesits we use House Sitters UK (£29 per year). But there are sister sites available in Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the USA, too.

Elsewhere there’s the original house sitting website, House Carers ($50 per year). Meanwhile, Nomador (65 euros per year / 25 euros per quarter) are particularly good for European-based assignments (especially France).

For the best choice in Mexican sits, we recommend HouseSit Mexico ($79 per year). What’s more, if you decide to sign up, you’ll get a 20% discount on your first year’s membership by using our coupon code: ianst6771c47b8153b

Also worth a mention is Mind My House (currently just $20 per year membership), which we used successfully in our “early days”. The number and quality of sits did dry up for us after a while and we no longer subscribe to them. But they do offer sits across the whole of Europe and the rest of the world, too.

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Complete your online profile

As part of your registration, you’ll be asked to complete a personal profile. It’s an important step as you’ll need it to convince a potential host that you’re a suitable person (or couple) to look after their home and beloved pet(s).

So think of it as a CV, or resumé, which the host will use as the basis of your application, much in the same way that an employer reviews CVs in a job application process.

How you complete it will depend on the website you’re using but you’ll typically need to include some background about yourself, why you want to housesit and what experience you have. In addition, you’ll want to include things that would be of interest to the host. So put yourself in their shoes. What sort of qualities and experience do you have that would “tick the box” for them?

Make sure you keep your profile tight and upbeat. You need to capture the reader’s attention if you’re going to stand out from the crowd. So don’t be shy about selling yourself.

Of course, you still need to be honest – house sitting as a concept is based on trust after all. And you really don’t want to apply for that gorgeous sounding off-the-grid and back-to-nature assignment in Costa Rica if you haven’t got the first clue about how to live in such an environment.

Include one or more good quality photographs of yourself, too. Preferably with at least one where you’re pictured with a pet. And even consider a short video to introduce yourself, where the site allows it.

To help you get started, you can read our Trusted Housesitters profile here and on our website’s House Sitting page.

It’s also a good idea to obtain two or three written references from your past or present employer and any professional acquaintances or friends (plus copies on email). It’ll help you until you’ve acquired some house sitting testimonials. And some hosts require them as a matter of course, anyway.

Similarly, there are a few hosts who’d like you to provide a police check. To be honest, we haven’t found it to be necessary but it might help you to get over the initial line if your profile states you can provide one.

And finally, hosts have commented to us that being able to view our blog beforehand helped them to get a better understanding of who we are. That it reinforced to them we were the type of people they could trust. So, if you already have a blog or website, then be sure to add a link to your profile.

Alternatively, if you have a Facebook or other social media page that you’d be happy to share, then consider using that instead.

Search and apply for house sitting opportunities

Ok, so you’ve signed up to your house sitting website, you’ve created your profile and you’re now ready to start searching for your first assignment.

There are a few ways to go about it.

Firstly, you can simply scroll through all the latest listings in the relevant section of the site – usually identified as something like “Find a sit” or “Find a house”.

Or you can narrow down your search by using filters such as date, location, house and pet type etc.

Or thirdly, you can set up an alert using filters suited to your preferences.

The key is to be alert when something is newly listed that interests you. While some hosts will patiently gather a number of applicants before responding, others will contact you quickly if they like what they see. So, although alerts to your inbox are useful, they won’t always arrive at the right time.

Once you’ve found a listing that interests you, submit your application. You’ll normally be asked to message the host directly as part of the application process so make sure you personalise it by adding sufficient additional information about yourself that answers specific questions the host might want to ask.

For example, if the housesit you are applying for requires that you walk two energetic Boxer dogs at least twice per day you might want to talk about your experience of doing just that. Or perhaps the fact that you’ve had Boxers as pets in the past.

Similarly, if the housesit requires you to have practical house maintenance skills then here’s your opportunity to state your case.

Above all, make sure your message is warm, friendly and positive. Remember, it’s likely you won’t be the only one applying so this is your chance to sell yourself.

Once you’re happy with it, click the “Submit” button. And then sit tight!

Or, of course, keep searching and apply for another sit. There’s absolutely no reason why you can’t have multiple applications on the go – as long as you’re genuinely interested in each of them.

Respond immediately to any contact

If you haven’t had a positive response to a few applications, re-visit your profile and your messages to the host. Do you need to change anything? Would any of the hosts you’ve applied to be happy to let you know where you’re falling down?

Don’t over-worry, though. The more popular sits have probably had lots of applications. Including from people who have plenty of experience and previous testimonials. Consider lowering your expectations about the type of sit you’re applying for and build up your profile with testimonials of your own.

However, if you do get a positive reply, respond immediately. The host may have replied to a number of applicants on their shortlist (just like in a “real” job scenario) so you’ll want to show them you’re serious.

Discuss the sit with the host(s)

Once they’ve short-listed one or more candidates most hosts will want to arrange a telephone or video call with you before making the final decision. To be honest, this makes sense from both party’s point of view because, just as they want to be sure you’re right for them, you’ll also want to make sure the sit is right for you.

So, if you haven’t already done so, prepare some questions about the sit to discuss with the host. Don’t worry, they’re normally just informal discussions and are actually a great way of building up a rapport right from the start.

But do make your first impressions count as most people will decide whether they like you or not from the first 30 seconds of the conversation.

During the conversation you might want to learn more about the pets and the house. About the location and how to get there from the airport/bus or train station. And when they’d want you to arrive – for example, are they planning to leave first thing in the morning or late afternoon?

Better still, discuss the possibility of arriving at least the day before to familiarise yourself with the pets, the house and surroundings (especially on sits of a week or more). Also, try to establish when exactly they’ll be back as that might affect your onward plans.

Clarify who’s paying what bills, if any. Although it’s a generally accepted rule that sitters aren’t required to pay for utilities, pet food etc, it’s always best to check upfront to avoid any potential embarrassment later.

And finally, clarify their expectations of you and be sure you can a) accept them, and b) fulfill them.

Confirm the assignment

If you’re offered the assignment and are still happy to go ahead then confirm via email. Or, if you’ve registered with Trusted Housesitters, you can simply click on a “Confirm” button.

Most sites provide a terms & conditions template which both parties can complete if they wish. To be honest, it’s not something we or our hosts have ever worried about using. But there may be circumstances where it might be right for your sit.

Importantly, stay in touch with your host ahead of the assignment. For example, this might be the first time they’ve advertised for a house sitter and may be anxious about you changing your mind. Remember, you haven’t paid a deposit. Equally, you may have additional questions for them. But it’s also a good way to strike up a relationship and build up trust before you arrive.

So, simply letting them know that you’ve booked your flight might be a good place to start.

But most importantly, you’re off on your first house sitting assignment!

And hopefully, it’ll be the first of many.

Of course, once you arrive for your assignment you’ll want to enjoy the experience AND put on a good show.

So, in the final part of this article, we’ll show you how to handle your first assignment and start to build yourself a reputation as the perfect house sitter.

Part 3: How To Make An Impression As A House Sitter

It’s quite simple really. Hosts are looking for two things from their house sitters. Trust and reliability. They need to feel that both their pets and their home are in good hands while they’re spending time away.

The fact that you’ve arrived for your first assignment suggests that you’ve already managed to convince your hosts that they can trust and rely on you. Much in the same way that you might convince an employer to hire you.

But, as in a “real” job, the proof is in the eating of the pudding, as someone famously said. It’s what you do while you’re there that will determine how successful you are. And if you put in the extra effort you’ll reap the benefits with repeat assignments, referrals, testimonials and indeed, friendships.

In fact, the old adage that “the more you put into it, the more you’ll get out of it” most definitely applies.

Before your hosts leave

As we mentioned in Part Two, hosts are normally keen to meet you beforehand. And, in our experience, that means arriving a day, or even several days before the sit is due to start.

It’s a good idea for a number of reasons. Firstly, it’s an opportunity to be shown around the house, get to know the pets’ routines and establish a good rapport with your hosts.

Secondly, you’ll have the chance to ask any questions you might have. Some hosts will provide a pack with all the information you’ll need, including any routine household tasks. Indeed, Trusted Housesitters actively encourage hosts to complete an online homeowner manual before you arrive.

And thirdly, it’s an opportunity to familiarise yourself with the area – the supermarkets, the vet, the hardware store, the best restaurants etc. And, of course, safe dog walking routes.

In addition, we suggest considering the following:

Establish how you would get to the vet in an emergency

For instance, if you don’t have your own transport how would you respond in the event of an emergency? Is there someone who might take you?

Make a fuss of the pets (where appropriate)

It might be a stressful time for a pet when it realises that its owner has seemingly abandoned it. So you can make life a lot easier for yourself (and the pet) by bonding with it as quickly as possible. For instance, we looked after a dog who suffers from separation anxiety, so we made sure we were constant companions with him even before our hosts left. As a result, we had a smooth transition without any anxiety issues.

Familiarise yourself with the quirks of the house

Learn from our mistake when we accidentally locked ourselves out on the first day of a sit as we didn’t know that the kitchen door locked itself when closed from the outside.

Establish regularity of contact

Just as it’s important to maintain contact in the lead-up to the assignment, it’s also a good idea to maintain that contact during the sit. The frequency varies from host to host and of course depending on the length of the sit. But it doesn’t hurt to give your hosts an occasional update on how their pets are doing and on anything else they might need to know about the house.

Establish when they will be returning so that you can prepare

You’ll be expected to make sure the house is at least as clean and tidy as it was when you arrived. So don’t get caught short and make sure you know not only the date of their return, but at what time, too.

During the sit

The two golden rules are that you should treat the house with the same respect that you would your own and that you provide as much care and attention to the pets as they would expect from their owners. And that’s really all that most hosts require.

Of course, as long as you’ve done that, you’re free to enjoy the house and the surrounding area. However, it would also pay to be aware of the following:

Keep to the pets’ routine

Pets like routine. It reassures them and, in turn, makes the job of looking after them so much easier. So make sure your host runs through it with you. Stick to it and don’t change the routine to suit you.

Replace anything that you break

Although many hosts are fairly relaxed about the occasional broken wine glass, we’ve always felt obliged to replace anything that we’ve accidentally broken or damaged. In fact, on longer sits we’ve gone as far as to buy ourselves items such as cheap glasses and tea towels from the outset.

Make yourself known to the neighbours

They can be your best friends if things do go wrong. And you’ll never know when you might need them.

Be aware of your utility usage

For the vast majority of housesits, the hosts will not expect you to contribute towards the utility bills. But it’s only right that, in return, you keep your usage to sensible levels. Which normally means switching off heating and cooling systems, lighting etc when they’re not needed.

After the sit

On many sits, it’s possible to leave before the hosts actually arrive back, although usually, that means earlier on the same day.

But we’d strongly recommend trying to be there to welcome the hosts home and complete a proper “handover’ at the end of the assignment. It’s a perfect opportunity to show your professionalism as a house sitter and to ask for a testimonial on your online profile. It may also help you to get a repeat assignment.

In fact, some hosts are happy for you to stay on for a day or so to allow you to explore the surrounding area without constraint, too. Perks of the job, if you like.

So what can you do to make the handover as smooth as possible?

Make sure the house and garden are immaculate

Your aim is to show that you’ve cared about the home. So allow enough time to get everything prepared in time for their arrival back.

Make sure the pets are ready on the day to hand over

Exercise the dog as per the routine, clean the litter tray, clear out the parrot cage etc

Make a list of things to report on

Any pet issues, broken or damaged items, phone calls received etc.

Provide some additional value

This is something we’ve always made a point of doing but we can understand why it wouldn’t suit everybody.

As a gesture of thanks to our hosts for entrusting us with their home and pets, we try to find a way of cooking a meal for them on their return. Either to eat with us or after we’re gone. Sometimes, that might just mean baking a loaf of bread or a cake. Other times, it’ll be one of Ian’s homemade curries.

In addition, we like to take photographs of their pets and provide our hosts with a link to view and download them from our online photography site.

Both are great ways of completing the house sitting assignment and leaving on a positive note. And they’re also enjoyable things to do.

Final thoughts

As you can see, it’s not rocket science. Much of it is just common sense, good communication and being as personable as you possibly can.

Once you’ve managed to complete your first assignment you’ll no doubt quickly decide if house sitting is something you’d like to do again. If indeed it is then, armed with your first experience of housesitting under your belt and (hopefully) a sparkling testimonial to go with it, you’ll be ready to begin your search for the next one with renewed vigour.

Just remember, by treating your second assignment as you did your first, you’ll again focus on ways to make an impression.

You’ll need to learn from your mistakes. You’ll want to strive to get better. And, if you do, you’ll start to build a reputation as a skilled and reliable sitter.

After all, reputation counts for a lot. And a good reputation will help you to stand out from the crowd.

What did you think? Have you ever tried house sitting? If so, what is house sitting all about for you? Or maybe you’re thinking of trying it in the near future? Either way, we’d love to hear from you so please add your comments below.

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

As part of the Inner Hebrides archipelago, the Isle of Skye sits between the Outer Hebrides and the northwest coast of mainland Scotland.

It’s a place that commands almost mythical status for travellers across the globe, drawn to its majestic landscapes, misty glens and peerless walking trails.

We spent nearly seven weeks there during October and November when most (though not all) summer tourists had long returned their rental cars and campervans. And when the notoriously fickle Skye weather continued to play its greatest hits daily.

Over the coming weeks, we’ll write about what there is to see and do. About the best walking trails and driving routes. And we’ll hopefully put into words and pictures just how beautiful the scenery really is.

But for now, and to whet your appetite, here are ten of our favourite Isle of Skye viewpoints.

The Old Man Of Storr

Probably Skye’s most-photographed spectacle, The Old Man of Storr is a weather-worn 50-metre-high pillar of rock standing guard over Loch Leathan from its lofty perch on the spectacular Trotternish Ridge.

From the roadside car park, there’s a relatively short, though steep trail to a rocky ledge beyond the Old Man, from where this photograph was taken.

The Quiraing

Further along Trotternish Ridge, The Quiraing is home to another collection of bizarre rock formations encircling a grassy plateau known as The Table. Legend has it that local herdsmen would use it to hide their livestock from invaders.

This photo is taken from an easily accessible viewpoint just 200 metres from the roadside car park.

Loch Bracadale

Along the route from our housesit in Colbost to the Cuillin Hills, the A863 twists around the western coastline, providing views that never cease to amaze.

We took this photo one frosty morning just after we crossed the Loch bridge from Bracadale.

Loch Fada

Yes, it’s that Old Man again. This time the viewpoint is from the A855 from Portree and looks across Loch Leathan, complete with its tiny, picturesque island.

The weather in this shot is so typical of Skye – wind, rain, mist and sunshine in chaotic harmony.

Gesto Bay

Further along the A583 from Bracadale, the viewpoint looking across Gesto Bay toward the Cuillen Hills is one of our favourites. Maybe because it reminds us so much of Patagonia.

Or maybe it’s how the low, late-autumn sun creates such magical light patterns on the nearby hillsides, contrasting with the blue of the loch and the blackness of The Cuillen in the background.

Loch Cill Chriosd

In the south of the island, the wonderful B8083 from Broadford to Elgol passes through some gorgeous scenery. None more so than at Loch Cill Chriosd with its carpet of reeds.

No wonder the locals have nicknamed it “the Hairy Loch”.

Neist Point

As Skye’s most westerly location, Neist Point is another of Skye’s most popular natural attractions. During the summer months, tourists descend in their thousands in the hope of glimpsing the iconic lighthouse bathed in a Hebridean sunset.

Our first visit was accompanied by thick fog. But we had long enough on the island to return when the weather was more sensible.

Probably the best view is this one from the cliffs of Waterstein Head, which can be reached on foot from a small car park a mile from Neist Point.

Loch Harport

If there’s a better view in Britain from a pub’s beer garden we’ve yet to find it.

We took this shot of Loch Harport from The Old Inn in Carbost – which just happens to be a 3-minute walk from the Talisker Distillery.

Sligachan Bridge

Positioned adjacent to the Cuillen Hills, Sligachan is one of Skye’s foremost hiking hubs. With the craggy peaks and swirling mist of the Black Cuillen to the right and the gentler Red Cuillen to the left, Glen Sligachan pierces into the heart of Britain’s most beautiful mountain range.

And, at its head, the Sligachan Old Bridge is an Instagram-friendly centrepiece.

Loch Slapin

And, finally, to Loch Slapin. Another beautiful sea loch, its mirroring qualities come into their own during calm weather.

This view is from the Elgol road, just over the loch from Torrin.

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

Stretching over 400 miles from Morwenstow on the north coast to Cawsand in the south, the Cornish coastline surrounds the extreme southwest peninsula of England, which points like an index finger into the Celtic Sea, with the Atlantic Ocean beyond.

In between, soaring cliffs, golden sandy beaches and surf-friendly waves are interspersed with historic fishing villages and disused tin mines.

Indeed, there are over 150 beaches, ranging from wide expanses of clean, golden sand in holiday hotspots such as Newquay and Bude to barely accessible rocky coves.

And, connecting them all, the South West Coast Path is a hiker’s paradise running all the way from Minehead in Somerset to Poole Harbour in Dorset, some 630 miles away.

Not surprisingly, the area is extremely popular with tourists and families during the peak summer months, when the narrow country roads can get clogged with cars, caravans and campervans. Nevertheless, exploring the county by car or camper is undoubtedly the best way to get around. Unless, of course, you plan on walking the entire South West Coast Path.

So, in this Cornwall road trip itinerary, we’ll highlight some of best places to visit by road, along with some great places to eat and drink. And we’ll suggest some day walks on the South West Coast Path to enjoy while you’re at it.

(nb: distances quoted are one-way so double-up for the return leg or walk as far as you’re able before heading back).

Part One: Bude to Padstow

Bude

Very much a traditional English seaside resort, Bude is a bucket-and-spade family destination at heart. But it also attracts surfers and walkers in their thousands, drawn by the impressive waves and lung-busting coastal walks north and south of town.

Indeed, it was while in Bude that Ian was introduced to Cornwall as an 18-year-old; an experience that cemented some personal life lessons.

1. he was never going to master surfing; and

2. cheap Scrumpy Cider is the Devil’s Brew and should be avoided at all cost.

Bude’s two main beaches (Summerleaze and Crooklets) are clean and bookended by cliffs. And Summerleaze even has a walled sea pool for when the waves are too much of a challenge.

The coastline to the north is some of the most rugged in the county. Indeed, the walk along the cliffs from Crooklets Beach to Duckpool, via Maer Cliff and Sandymouth, is a spectacular one. Steep in parts, it takes in some fabulous coastal views and is a great introduction to what the South West Coastal Path has to offer.

Afterwards, head to The Barrel At Bude (Thursday to Sunday only) for local beers, live music and a unique atmosphere. The place is tiny, with just a few tables and chairs inside and out. But the hosts are super-friendly and you’ll be made to feel very welcome.

South West Coast Path: North to Duckpool (3.5 miles / 1h 30m) or south to Widemouth Beach (3 miles / 1 h).

Boscastle & Tintagel

Separated by five miles or so of the South West Coast Path, these two historic settlements are worth at least a day or two of your time.

Set in a natural harbour, the tiny fishing village of Boscastle inspired many of Thomas Hardy’s novels and poems. It came to the attention of most Brits only when it was devastated by severe flooding in 2004. Since then, it has largely relied on tourism to help it recover.

After leaving your car in the main car park (which dwarfs the village itself), take a stroll around the village centre before heading off along the harbour to the headland at Warren Point. From there the South West Coast Path continues to Tintagel, passing old cliff-edge slate quarries, offshore islands and shaded coves. It’s a moderately tough five-mile hike so walking there and back might be a stretch too far. However, you can catch a bus back to Boscastle from Tintagel Visitor Centre.

Alternatively, drive to Tintagel and park at the car park just before the trail to the village’s main claim to fame – its association with the legend of King Arthur.

Whether you believe that King Arthur existed or not, it’s easy to get wrapped up in the whole legend while visiting Tintagel’s island and King Arthur’s statue. Although, according to English Heritage who commissioned the eight-foot bronze image in 2016, the statue is called Gallos (from the Cornish word for “power”) and represents the general royal heritage of the site rather than any one King. But, if you ask us, that pointy thing he’s holding looks suspiciously like Excalibur.

Nearby Tintagel Brewery is a great place for lunch or dinner. With a full range of beers on handpump and brewery tours available, too.

South West Coast Path: North towards Boscastle (5.5 miles 2h 30m) or south to Trebarwith Beach and Backways Cove (2.7 miles / 1h).

READ MORE: Boscastle & Tintagel: Where Cornwall’s Arthurian Legend Was Born

Port Isaac

From Tintagel it’s a nine-mile drive to Port Isaac. Another atmospheric fishing village, it served as a location for the BBC TV series, Poldark.

And it’s everything you’d imagine a Cornish fishing village to be. Narrow streets lined with colourful cottages that wind down the hillside. Although, in addition to the welcoming aroma of freshly caught crab, the ever-present homemade signs betray a world-weariness from locals towards tourists and their inconsiderate parking habits.

For a great view of the village in its natural setting, take a short walk along the coast path to Bert Large’s Chair on the headland opposite the harbour. And if you’ve yet to taste a traditional Cornish pasty, make sure you call in at Nicky B’s Pasty Shop (opposite The Golden Lion pub).

South West Coast Path: North towards Tregardock Beach or south to Port Quin (3.5 miles / 1h 30m).

Rock & Padstow

A further eight miles by road from Port Isaac, Rock sits on the Camel Estuary and directly opposite its more famous neighbour, Padstow. It’s a fairly upmarket village with higher-end accommodation and restaurants.

The main attraction here is the lovely spit of sand at high tide. And there’s easy access, via the south coast path, to Polzeath Beach (3.5 miles / 1h 20m).

Meanwhile, Padstow is a lovely fishing village-cum-fine dining destination. Largely on the back of native celebrity chef Rick Stein, whose name and influence are everywhere. But also Michelin-starred chef, Paul Ainsworth. Both of whom have restaurants in town. As a result, it gets packed to the rafters during the summer months. And parking is a nightmare, too.

But don’t let that put you off. The smart choice is to leave your car over in Rock and take the ferry across. It typically runs every 20 minutes, seven days a week (except Sundays during winter months).

Once you’re there, take a stroll around the harbour and village. Try a Cornish pasty from one of the five village bakeries (The Cornish Pasty Co would be our recommendation). Or go for the fish and chips at Rick Stein’s place.

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North of the village, the coast path leads to Harbour Cove (1.5 miles / 30 mins) at the mouth of the Camel Estuary. It’s a wide and often windswept expanse of golden sand surrounded by grassy dunes and farmland. And the views across the estuary to Rock and its beaches are superb.

Part Two: Padstow to St Ives

Constantine Bay & Trevose Head

The coastline just south of Padstow is well worth exploring before you head on much further. Starting at Constantine Bay, the Trevose Headland Walk hugs the cliffs from where, on a clear day, it’s possible to see along the full length of the north Cornish coastline.

It’s also notable for a curious 80-foot sinkhole that suddenly crashes through the headland to the sea below (similar to another one a few miles north at Trevone Bay). Indeed, the footpath passes beside it without any warning – which would make walking here at dusk potentially treacherous, to say the least.

South West Coast Path: Constantine Bay Car Park to Long Cove Beach, via Trevose Head (2.6 miles / 1 h)

The Bedruthan Steps

Next, drive five miles south to the National Trust car park for Carnewas at Bedruthan (aka The Bedruthan Steps). Located in one of the most spectacular sections of the entire Cornish coastline, it’s a series of sea stacks which become fully exposed at low tide. And, like elsewhere along the coast, can be seen lurking in the background behind the lacy frocks, breeches and three-cornered hats of the BBC period drama, Poldark.

If you have the time, you could continue the cliff and sea stack walk all the way to Porthcothan Bay (3 miles / 1h 10m).

Newquay

Your next stop is Newquay, Bude’s busier and rowdier cousin. Once again, the expansive beaches are family-friendly, the waves attract surfers from afar, and the town has enough pubs, bars, restaurants and cafés to keep most holidaymakers happy for a week or two.

The best coastal walk is south of town, starting at Crantock Beach and finishing at Holywell Bay (3.5 miles / 1h 20m). The beaches along the way are superb. And the dramatic coastline features in the HBO series, House of the Dragon.

St Agnes

To be honest, we prefer our Cornish seaside resorts a bit more relaxed. Such as laid-back St Agnes, just 11 miles further on from Newquay.

Park in the St Agnes Head car park and make your way to the coast path, turning south to Chapel Porth Beach.

Along the way, you’ll come across remnants of Cornwall’s tin mining industry, which employed 30,000 men at its peak during the 19th Century. The remains of those heady days are dotted along Cornwall’s northern coastline in the form of disused mining shafts and abandoned engine pumping houses – now recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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Wheal Coates is one of the most photographed. And it’s not hard to see why with its dramatic moorland setting overlooking the cliffs. This section of the path is particularly beautiful during the summer and early autumn months because of the displays of heather and gorse, along with other wildflowers carpeting the hillside.

South West Coast Path: From Trevaunance Cove south to Chapel Porth Beach, via Wheal Coates (3 miles / 1h 10m) or north to Cligga Head (2.5 miles / 1h 5m).

Back in the village, head for The Driftwood Spars pub. Aside from the fact that it sounds like a great name for a rock band, it also brews its own beer. The building itself dates back to the 1650’s when its construction included using enormous beams (spars) salvaged from nearby shipwrecks.

Godrevy Beach

From St Agnes, it’s a further 13 miles south to our next destination.

Another glorious expanse of golden sand, the magnificent Godrevy Beach spills over into nearby Gwithian Beach at low tide. There’s a National Trust car park for easy access, but at £8 (2024 price) for a full day, it’s an expensive option (as National Trust car parks always are). If you’re lucky you’ll find a space in one of the laybays on the nearby B3301 instead.

St Ives

A further 10 miles south you’ll reach beautiful St Ives – once a medieval fishing village now transformed into one of England’s premier seaside destinations. It even caught the whiff of international acclaim when it hosted the G7 Summit in 2021.

During the summer, the place is overrun with visitors, even though it’s considered the most expensive resort in England. And the backlash from Cornish locals against “outsiders’ buying up property as second homes (thereby driving up prices even further) doesn’t get any fiercer than it does here.

Like in Padstow, driving and parking are for chaos enthusiasts only. We suggest parking the car in nearby St Erth and taking the 10-minute scenic railway into town instead. Once you’re there you’ll find lots of pubs, restaurants and boutique shops to explore. And no less than four golden sand beaches to choose from. All clustered around a quaint harbour where lobster pots and beached fishing boats are as common as bucket, spades and sand castles.

And, if you walk just 20 minutes south on the coastal path (as far as Clodgy Point), there are some great headland views back to the town.

Part Three: Land’s End to Lizard Point

Sennen Cove & Land’s End

The 20-mile B3306 coastal route heading south from St Ives passes beside Cornwall’s wildest (and least visited) stretch of coastline. With tin mines and beautiful moorland countryside to discover there are plenty of opportunities to stop and walk the coastal path.

Once you join the A30, you’ll be approaching Land’s End; probably Cornwall’s most famous attraction. And it’s the starting/ending point for the classic charity walk/cycle between Great Britain’s southwest and northeast extremities (the other being 874 miles away at John O’Groats in Scotland).

Not that there’s much there to see. Sure, the scenery is as captivating as many other places in Cornwall. And, if you’re up for some tacky commercialisation of a national landmark, you won’t be disappointed.

But mostly it represents a pilgrimage of sorts for domestic tourists eager to soak up mythical Arthurian tales of sunken kingdoms and family infighting. Or to at least return home with a photograph to show they’ve stood at the southwest extremity of mainland Britain. Just like countless thousands before them, who’ve gazed out over the cliffs and crashing waves towards the faint cliffs of the Scilly Isles beyond.

Most visitors rock up at the landmark’s dedicated car park and access the headland via the tourist village. But for a more visceral experience, we’d recommend making your way to nearby Sennen Cove instead and approaching Land’s End by walking along the coastal path.

South West coast path: Sennen Cove Harbour Car Park to Land’s End (1.2 miles / 30 min)

READ MORE: The Sennen Cove To Land's End Walk: A Stroll On The Wild Side

Porthcurno & Minack Theatre

Having reached Land’s End, our Cornwall road trip now heads along the southern coastline. Sheltered by the English Channel, it’s notable for its rias – deepwater harbours, such as those found at Falmouth and Fowey – and the cute fishing villages that have remained largely unchanged for decades.

Speaking of which, Porthcurno is the first of the fishing villages you’ll come across. Although it’s no longer sleepy, mainly because of its gorgeous family-friendly beach. And its proximity to the unique Minack Theatre.

Partly because of this, we’d recommend you leave your car in the spacious car park at Treen and walk back to Porthcurno along the coastal path. The views alone make it worthwhile.

From the car park, a trail heads down to Logan Rock. The name refers to a 90-tonne slab of granite that’s balanced on the tip of the headland. Nowadays it also takes in the surrounding remains of an Iron Age cliff fort. It takes a bit of scrambling to get to the very tip but the views westwards along the coast towards Porthcurno are just sublime; sea cliffs, golden beaches and THAT cliff-top open-air theatre.

There are plenty of beaches that can lay claim to being the best in Cornwall. But Pedn Vounder, which you’ll pass next along the coast path, is right up there with the very best. Accessed via a steep trail from the cliffs above, it’s popular with both naturists and marauding Poldark fans. Which makes for an intriguing combination.

After which you’ll arrive at Porthcurno’s beach. Head towards the cliffs on the opposite side of the bay to begin your climb to Minack Theatre.

It was the brainchild of one Rowena Cade, who turned her pre-war cliff-top garden into an impromptu setting for an amateur theatre production of The Tempest. And it was such a success that she, together with her trusted gardener, developed it into a full-scale theatre over the ensuing years. Nowadays it serves as both a functioning theatre and a tourist attraction for those who’d rather just wander around its unique setting.

Of course, if you’re lucky enough to be around when there’s a show, you’ll need to grab your tickets well in advance.

To return to Treen car park, take the more direct walking route via Treen Farm Campsite.

South West Coast Path: Treen Car Park to Minack Theatre, via Logan Rock (2 miles / 45m)

Mousehole & Penzance

Seven miles from Treen, Mousehole (pronounced “Mowsul”) is a historic fishing village and typical of those that dot the southern coastline – just a cluster of stone cottages connected by narrow, cobbled streets and gathered around a pretty harbour.

But, if you prefer somewhere a bit more lively, Penzance is a mere three miles further on. The name alone conjures up cinematic images of pirates and smugglers quaffing gallons of rum in a rowdy harbourside bar. The Admiral Benbow pub certainly plays up to that and more. Legend has it that, after a visit in 1880, the pub (or “illegal drinking den” as it was then) inspired Robert Louis Stephenson to include its name in his forthcoming “Treasure Island”.

A further three miles around the bay, Marazion Beach includes a causeway that can be walked across to St Michael’s Mount, a castle that sits on the top of a tidal island. Effectively, it’s the counterpart to Mont Saint-Michel, a similarly shaped island fortress in Normandy. Owned by The National Trust, there’s a £15 entrance fee (unless you have a National Trust membership) and access by foot is limited to four hours per day (because of the tides).

Lizard Point

From there we head south to the most southerly point on mainland Britain. Lizard Point feels like a sister location to Land’s End with its cliffs, off-shore sea stacks and lighthouse. Although this time without the huge car park and purpose-built visitor centre.

Parking can be a challenge in busy periods so if you want to claim your spot we suggest you arrive early in the day.

The walks along the coast path in both directions are worth doing from here.

East leads to Kynance Cove, another contender for Cornwall’s Best Beach. Its white sand contrasting with the offshore rock stacks and a turquoise sea, it rivals anything the Portuguese Algarve or Lisbon coasts can offer. Apart from the weather, naturally.

At low tide, the sea stacks become fully exposed. And there are caves to explore. Best of all, the views as you approach it from the cliffs of the coast path are suitably spectacular.

Heading west from Lizard Point, the path leads along the cliff-top to the gorgeous thatch-roofed fishing village of Cadgwith. With its hidden shingle beach at the head of a narrow lane running through the village, it was once a thriving smugglers’ cove. And, although those days have long gone, the village has remained largely unchanged for 300 years.

Indeed, the fishermen still land their boats directly on the beach. But where once their haul was a bountiful supply of pilchard, nowadays it’s primarily crab and lobster. Fresh crab sandwiches being something of a culinary speciality in the village.

We’d hoped to have one for lunch at the Cadgwith Cove Inn but it was closed when we were there. However, not to be outdone, we managed to pick one up from Cadgwith Cove Crab at the harbour. And, we can confirm, the sandwich was definitely a step up from having it filled with pilchard.

South West Coast Path: Lizard Point to Kynance Cove (2.6 miles / 1h); Lizard Point to Cadgwith (3.5 miles / 1h 30m).

Part Four: Falmouth to Kingsand

Falmouth

Retreating from the Lizard Peninsula, a 45-minute drive east arrives at Falmouth, another south coast harbour town with a rich maritime heritage. Which is not surprising given that it’s home to the third-largest deep water harbour in the world.

The big attraction is the National Maritime Museum with its five floors and fifteen galleries. But the town also has its fair share of bohemian staples such as art galleries, indie shops and bookstores. Typified by the Beerwolf Bookshop, a bar-cum-library where you can browse or buy a second-hand book while you relax with a glass of Cornish ale.

However, for a true Cornwall experience, combine a fish & chips takeaway from Harbour Lights Fish & Chips with a beer at The Front – an award-winning pub with outdoor benches facing the harbour (and where you’re welcome to take your own food).

Charlestown

Our next stop is about an hour’s drive north of Falmouth. And we promise, this will be our last mention of Poldark. But if there’s a better example of an archetypal “seafaring costume drama filming location” than the Georgian port of Charlestown we’ve yet to see it. In fact, not only has it featured in many a film and TV series, but it’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The port is an extension of St Austell, which would be a handy place to stay as a base for visiting two of Cornwall’s biggest attractions.

The Eden Project, a former clay mine converted into a huge “global garden”, spread across 22 glass domes, is just three miles out of town. The Lost Gardens Of Heligan, 200 acres of restored 19th-century gardens, is six miles in the other direction.

And, if you decide to stay in St Austell, consider paying a visit to the renowned St Austell Brewery. You can sample the full range of its beers in the onsite Brewery Tap. And you can book a tour of the brewery, too.

READ MORE: A Stroll Through The Georgian Harbour In Charlestown

Fowey

Continuing with the Georgian port theme, Fowey (pronounced “Foy”) is a mere seven miles away. Famed for its beaches, coastal walks, boating and lovely harbour, it’s a more compact version of Falmouth. Indeed, it has everything good about Cornwall crammed into bite-sized pieces.

Whitewashed cottages with Cornish blue doors and window frames tumble down through the winding streets to a harbour teeming with tiny fishing boats mingling with yachts, ferries, pleasure boats and kayaks.

Meanwhile, independent shops selling Cornish “delicacies” such as pasties, fudge and cream teas vie with seafood restaurants and historic quayside pubs for your attention.

And, you can combine exploring Fowey with visits to nearby villages, such as Polruan and Bodinnick.

We wish we’d spent more time there, to be honest. In fact, next time we’ll look for house sitting opportunities to enjoy an extended stay.

Polperro

From Fowey, you can get to the gorgeous fishing village of Polperro (seven miles away) by taking the small car ferry to Boddinick and then following the coast road. Otherwise, you’ll need to head inland and then back to the coast (24 miles).

However, don’t expect to be able to park anywhere near the harbour as it’s largely pedestrianised. And where there is street parking, it’s strictly for residents only. Something that clearly irks many locals (as in Port Isaac) judging by the number of makeshift “No parking!!” signs on display. However, there’s a public car park half a mile away at the top of the village.

If Fowey encompasses much of what makes Cornwall special today, Polperro does the same thing but on a smaller scale. And, to use a well-worn phrase, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped back in time.

Things to do here involve wandering around the quaint harbour, filled with a myriad of small, colourful fishing boats, and through its maze of cobbled streets. Along the way, you’ll pass old merchant houses and whitewashed cottages topped with grey slate.

Apart from its fishing heritage, the village was once notable as a smuggling haven. As celebrated in the Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling & Fishing, housed in a 19th century ex-pilchard factory.

And no doubt those smugglers and fishermen of yesteryear drank Cornish ale and swapped stories in the excellent Blue Peter Inn, right beside the harbour. Nowadays, it’s a much more family-friendly place with tables and benches outside overlooking the harbour.

Although Polperro remains a working fishing village, it’s also very popular with tourists. And, so it seems, Airbnb owners. Like elsewhere in Cornwall, second home ownership from out-of-towners is a thorny subject. And we’ll admit, our hearts sank (if not surprised) as we walked past rows of historic cottages with requisite key safes in situ.

Cawsand & Kingsand

And finally, before the coast road leaves Cornwall for neighbouring Devon, the twin villages of Cawsand and Kingsand are also worth visiting. Although, if you’ve been to most of the places we’ve already described in this article, you won’t find much difference here.

Clusters of whitewashed and pastel-coloured cottages? Check. A reputation for 18th and 19th-century smuggling? Of course. Loads of tourists? Well actually, no!

This corner of Cornwall seems to have escaped the summer hordes, attracting day-trippers from Plymouth (Devon) instead. So, if a more relaxed Cornwall experience is a priority for you, then these two side-by-side villages are worth considering.

Final thoughts

So there you have it. We believe that by the time you’ve completed this road trip, you’ll have experienced the very best of coastal Cornwall. And, of course, you could extend it into neighbouring Devon, with its similar offering of olde-worlde fishing villages, great beaches and cliff-top coastal walks.

Expect the notorious British weather to scupper your outdoor plans on any given day. And allow plenty of time to get around. During the peak summer season, caravans, camper vans, rental cars and lorries all jostle for supremacy on the busy A-roads.

And be prepared to negotiate your way past oncoming traffic on winding, single-track country lanes littered with blind bends, tall hedgerows and international motorists who are driving on British lanes for the very first time.

Don’t say you haven’t been warned!

What did you think? Do you have any further recommendations for a Cornwall road trip? We’d love to hear from you, so please add your comment below.

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

Street Art. Urban Art. Graffiti. Defacement. Vandalism.

You’ll no doubt have your view on what best describes the imaginative, colourful and sometimes provocative works of art that adorn walls, doors and façades in cities worldwide.

Full disclosure – we’re massive fans. So much so that we actively seek places to visit where there’s a good supply of them. And nowhere more so than in Latin American countries, where impoverished neighbourhoods have spawned armies of creative street artists. Ranging from simple sketches to huge pictorial murals, their creations depict stories of national history, human struggle and local identity. And, in turn, they’ve transformed depressing, rundown streets into open-air galleries of colour and optimism.

This article celebrates some of the best Latin American street art we’ve seen over the years. And where you’ll find it. However, be aware that many of these examples may have been replaced with newer (and even more impressive) works of art by the time you arrive!

The origins of street art

Street art’s roots are firmly tied to the marginalised communities of New York City during the 1960s and 1970s. During that time, the poor living conditions and lack of opportunities catalysed young people to vent their frustrations by spray painting neglected and derelict buildings with their “tags” – complex designs of their names, suggesting ownership of a particular public space.

Known as graffiti, it was largely seen as vandalism and a symbol of crime-ridden, no-go areas for most people. But, amongst the growing community of artists, it became a sub-culture, inspiring collaboration and development into an art form more closely associated with that of today.

Much of the credit for widening its appeal goes to the English street artist known as Banksy. His (or her?) simple, yet provocative social commentaries, created under a blanket of anonymity and sheer audacity, helped to mainstream the art form and pave the way for other ”celebrity” street artists to push the boundaries of what’s possible.

The emergence of social media platforms during the 21st Century has further expanded the reach of these artists. And many are now recognised as legitimate artists by the establishment. Nowadays you’re just as likely to see street art displayed in a gallery exhibition as you will outside.

Mexico

Much of Mexico’s modern-day street art is influenced by the fabulous murals of José Clemente Orozco, Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siqueiros. They were leaders of the Murals Movement, commissioned by the government following the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920) to create public murals depicting both pre-colonial culture and a new Mexico driven by both an indiginous and mixed Indian-European (“mestizo”) workforce.

Guadalajara

Famous as the spiritual home of mariachi and tequila, Guadalajara’s historic centre is adorned with beautiful colonial-era buildings and, as a university city, has a lively, youthful vibe.

Our selection of Guadalajaran street art reflects Mexicans’ relationship with death, culminating with Dia de los Muertos (Day Of The Dead) at the beginning of November. And a vivid image of Frida Kahlo, the iconic painter, with a representation of one of her most famous self-portraits.

READ MORE: The Best Things To Do In Guadalajara

San Miguel de Allende

Five hours by road from Guadalajara, San Miguel de Allende is probably the most aesthetically pleasing of all of Mexico’s colonial-era towns and cities. Its centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, too. As a result, it attracts well-heeled Mexicans and retirees from North America, who’ve converged on the town in large numbers over the past decade or so.

Most of the street art can be seen in the Guadalupe district, just outside the historic centre. And they’re amongst the most colourful we’ve ever seen.

READ MORE: A Handy Guide To San Miguel de Allende

Guanajuato

Just an hour-and-a-half from San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato is its grungier, noisy neighbour. We spent a couple of months there and grew to love the place. Not surprising really given its beautiful valley setting, incredible history and fantastic street food.

Walking its labyrinthine streets is no mean feat as cobbled alleyways climb steeply on both sides of the valley. But it’s here that some of the best street art can be found.

Many include an image of a frog – Guanajuato is the Spanish spelling of the original indigenous place name Quanaxjuato, meaning “Place of Frogs”. Nowadays, the amphibious croaker is the city’s mascot.

READ MORE: The Essential Guide To Guanajuato

Ajijic

Another colourful town popular with North American retirees, Ajijic is situated on Lake Chapala, just south of Guadalajara. Home to more than its fair share of artists, the town seems to act as a giant canvas for experienced and would-be artists to create their magic.

A regular theme concerns the important role of the lake, which profoundly affects the well-being of the villages and towns surrounding it.

Our selection is taken from a stunning mural on the walls of an elementary (or primary) school, created by local artist, Efren Gonzalez.

Puebla

Speaking of places that attract artists, Puebla has an area (Barrio de Artista) dedicated to them. But the murals just outside the city centre are the most striking. For instance, in the Xanenetia barrio, many houses are adorned with imaginative paintings using doors and windows as props.

But, for our money, the two murals straddling either side of the duel carriageway (Boulevard Héroes de 5 de Mayo) are unmissable. One is a striking green and blue depiction of the Mexican Revolution. And, more or less opposite, the Mural de la Esperanza al Porvenir (“Mural of Hope for the Future”) is a monumental work created by 20 artists, covering a wall 25 metres long and 8 metres high. Intertwining images from Mexico’s distant past with those of first line medical staff during the COVID-19 pandemic, it’s a truly stunning sight.

READ MORE: A Handy Puebla Walking Tour & Travel Guide

Oaxaca

We spent our time in Oaxaca either side of the Day of the Dead festival. Unsurprisingly, there were plenty of skeletal figures painted on houses and walls to add to the macabre atmosphere.

As in other Mexican cities, there are certain neighbourhoods where the murals are present in large numbers – specifically Xochimilco and Jalatlaco, which are both easily accessible from the historic centre.

READ MORE: Oaxaca’s Day Of The Dead Festival

Colombia

Like many Latin American countries, Colombia has suffered a turbulent time over the past few decades. Something that’s reflected in its street art, where images of resistance combine with the country’s exhuberant natural beauty. The biggest collection is in Bogotá, a city we’ve yet to visit. So, for now, we’ve selected some of our favourites from the coastal resort of Cartagena and gritty Medellín.

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Cartagena

Cartagena – another UNESCO World Heritage Site – offers world class food, a bustling nightlife and plenty of sublimely colourful buildings. No wonder it’s a favourite on cruise ship itineraries.

But, away from the tourist-friendly historic centre and the beaches of Bocagrande, the neighbourhood of Getsemani is home to the city’s best street art.

A recurring theme is the honouring of Nobel Prize-winning author Gabriel Garcia Marquez, who lived and worked in the city as a journalist. And, with Colombia’s nearly 2,000 species of bird, you’ll see plenty of our brightly coloured feathered friends depicted, too. The blue, yellow and red of the national flag are used to striking effect. As you can see below.

However, there are also plenty of examples portraying the struggles and resistance of different generations.

Although one of our favourites for its simplicity and honest messaging just states “!Don’t Give Papaya!” – or don’t leave papaya (which Colombians love!) where it can be taken from. In other words, don’t make it easy for petty criminals to take advantage of you. Which, to be honest, is good advice in any town or city.

Medellin

Notorious in the past for its association with a certain drug cartel leader and corresponding violence, Medellín has been steadily attracting tourism and digital nomads over the past few years. Previous no-go areas have been transformed, led in part by creative street artists, whose murals serve as both a reminder of past conflicts and a beacon of hope for the future.

And none more so that in the barrio of Comuna 13, reached by cable car from the city centre. We visited as part of a walking tour led by a local who’d lived through those dark years.

READ MORE: The Inspirational Street Art Of Comuna 13

Peru

Lima (Barranco)

Some of Peru’s best street art is to be found in Barranco, Lima’s bohemian neighbourhood. Especially the murals underneath the bridge on Bajada de Banos Street (near the Bridge of Sighs).

We spent a few days in the barrio enjoying the ceviche, ice cream, coffee bars and craft beer. But it’s those murals that will last longest in the memory.

Chile

Valparaiso

A further 1500 miles south of Lima, along the continent’s Pacific coast, Valparaiso is Chile’s street art capital.

And, much like many other deprived neighbourhoods in South America, the once decaying buildings and crime-ridden streets have been transformed into colourful open-air galleries.

Indeed, although spray-painting walls is technically illegal, artists have been actively encouraged. Not surprising given the cruise ships that now arrive, full of tourists willing to take street art walking tours and spend their tourist dollars in the city’s shops, restaurants, bars and hotels.

We loved our visit there. And it’s easily accessible from Santiago.

READ MORE: Valparaiso & Its Amazing Street Art

Argentina

Buenos Aires

The street art in Buenos Aires reflects the turmoil of its political and social history, along with Argentinians’ passion for football. Specifically, Argentinian football.

Boca is perhaps the most famous neighbourhood. It’s where Diego Maradona made his name with Boca Juniors and cemented his legendary status as one of the greatest footballers of all time. Not surprisingly his image is everywhere. Although venture outside of Boca and you might just as well see a mural of his modern-day equivalent, Lionel Messi.

One of the most arresting murals we saw was one representing the “Mothers of the Disappeared”, a group of 237 mothers wearing white headscarves, who demonstrated outside the Presidential Palace against the disappearance of their children at the hands of the military junta (1976 – 1983). In all, some 30,000 people “disappeared” during that period. And the Madres continue to protest and seek answers to this day.

Cueva de las Manos

Of course, painting and stencilling on walls wasn’t just invented in the latter half of the 20th Century. During our extended road trip through Patagonia we saw some ancient rock art at Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands) that was over 9,000 year old.

In all there are over 800 handprint stencils created by blowing paint through cylindrical bone over a hand positioned on the rock face. For some reason most are left hands. All are male. And one even has six fingers. Go figure.

READ MORE: The Prehistoric Rock Art Of Cueva de las Manos

Brazil

Brazil’s tumultuous past also provides a rich vein of topics for street artists to create their masterworks. In particular, the depiction of Brazil’s African heritage through its food, music and dance.

Rio de Janeiro

As one of the world’s largest slave ports, Rio’s history is indelibly linked to the slave trade. After its abolition in the late 18th Century, a neighbourhood called “Little Africa” transformed from being a centre of slave markets to a home for freed slaves. Out of which samba music is said to have been born.

Naturally, the area’s street art represents the struggle for freedom and a celebration of Afro-Brazilian culture through its music and dance. Especially in and around Pedra de Sal, the spiritual home of samba in Rio.

By contrast, a short walk from Little Africa takes you to the huge Mural Etnias. At the time of writing it’s the world’s largest mural, created by renowned artist, Eduardo Kobra. Commissioned as part of preparrtions for 2016 Rio Olympics, it celebrates diversity and a hopeful future. A truly phenomenal piece of work, it’s not be missed.

Elsewhere in the city, warehouses, office blocks and colonial-era buildings are all used as backdrops for some of the most stunning Latin American art work we’ve seen.

READ MORE: A Self-Guided City Tour Of Rio de Janeiro’s Historic Centre

Salvador

Despite Salvador’s unfortunate reputation for violence, we reckon it’s a city that should be included on any Brazilian itinerary. Especially the historic Pelourinho and Santo Antonio neighbourhoods. With strikingly coloured buildings and plenty of restaurants serving fabulous Bahian food, it’s easily walkable. Albeit during the day when it’s much safer to do so.

The street art reflects Salvador’s Afro-Brazilian history and culture. It’s certainly not on such a grand scale as Rio de Janeiro, but it’s no less powerful in its messaging.

READ MORE: How To Visit Salvador & Its Historic Centre Safely

Olinda

500 miles further up Brazil’s northeast coast, Olinda is another colonial-era gem featuring colourful houses, red rooftops, cobblestones, Baroque churches and (once again) plenty of street art.

Its bohemian vibe is enhanced by street music, small art galleries and its annual Carnaval, one of Brazil’s biggest alongside Salvador and Rio.

The best place to see street art is along Rua do Amparo where, beside the restaurants, bars and cafés, whole buildings have been covered with murals.

READ MORE: What To See & Do In Olinda: Northeast Brazil’s Colonial Gem

Elsewhere in Latin America

Panama

Panama City might look like a typical modern city with a financial hub teeming with high-rise steel and glass. But a short walk through the fish markets and across the Cinta Costera (Coastal Walkway) reveals a world of crumbling old buildings and gentrified streets.

However, unlike most other Latin American colonial-era cities, the influence here is French rather than Spanish or Portuguese. Cue extravagant wrought iron balconies straight out of a Parisian boulevard or New Orleans street.

Once again, the street art accentuates the vibrant colour of the neighbourhood as well as transforming the greyness of modern Panama City. In particular, Rolo de Sedas’ colourful depictions of Latin American wome

Bolivia

La Paz, Bolivia’s sky-high capital, is a chaotic jumble of old and new. Where glass and steel skyscrapers fight for space with crumbling old buildings. And where sharply dressed business folk stand shoulder-to-shoulder with traditionally dressed Aymara cholitas – indigenous women whose striking appearance typically includes a wide, colourful skirt, shawl, braided hair and bowler hat.

Having suffered discrimination over the decades they’ve come to be recognised as a symbol of Bolivian strength and resistance. No wonder they feature in much of the city’s street art.

Final thoughts on Latin American street art

For us, visiting a Latin American city without seeking out its best street art is like not bothering to try the local food. We wouldn’t dream of doing either.

So, as we continue to travel in Latin America, we’ll be on the lookout for more artistic masterpieces like those featured here.

And, of course, we’ll update this article with our favourites.

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

Planning an extended visit to South America is something that requires imagination, an adventurous spirit and plenty of patience. But, with so much to see and do, the most difficult decision might just be where to start.

In our opinion, the UNESCO World Heritage Site list provides the answer. With 72 separate entries to choose from, the continent is an absolute treasure trove of gobsmacking cultural sites and natural wonders.

Seeing all 72 in one visit would certainly take some doing. We managed 17 during our eight months travelling through Colombia, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile. And they remain some of the absolute highlights of our whole trip.

Each of the 15 featured here, starting in the ice fields of southern Patagonia and ending on the Caribbean coast of northern Colombia, holds a special memory for us.

Make sure you seek them out!

Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina

UNESCO listing: Los Glaciares National Park

If you like your mountains spectacularly rugged, your glaciers ridiculously large and the colour of your lakes somewhere between turquoise and cobalt blue, then Los Glaciares National Park is quite possibly your idea of heaven on earth.

At 6,000 square kilometres, it’s a huge area of mostly untouched wilderness. And long may it stay that way.

But there are touch points for tourists to at least have a glimmer at the park’s natural wonders.

For instance, nothing quite prepares you for your first glimpse of the astonishing Perito Moreno Glacier. Located near to El Calafate in the south of the park, it’s an ice field colossus which stretches back 30 kilometres and is 700 metres deep at one point.

What makes it so unique is that it’s extremely accessible. Indeed, there’s an impressive series of boardwalks that run along the hillside opposite the glacier wall. We guarantee you’ll be transfixed.

Especially when you witness one of the regular “calvings” of ice from the front wall. We stood there open-mouthed when a shard of ice the size of a house suddenly broke away from the wall and crashed into the lake below.

Nothing to do with climate change, by the way. Just the normal cycle of things as Perito Moreno is one of the few glaciers in the world that’s actually ADVANCING rather than retreating.

In addition, there are glacier walks, boat trips and excursions to remoter glaciers further into the South Patagonian Ice Field.

READ MORE: The Fabulous Perito Moreno Glacier: A Complete Guide

Meanwhile, in the north of the park, the frontier town of El Chaltén serves as the gateway to the twin mountains of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. The landscape here is truly spectacular. Towering rock pinnacles, hanging glaciers, lakes and woodland. And with some of the best day hikes in Patagonia, it begs to be explored when the weather is good.

Which it often isn’t.

READ MORE: El Chalten - The Jewel In Patagonia’s Crown

Cueva de las Manos, Argentina

UNESCO listing: Cueva de las Manos, Río Pinturas

More like a rocky overhang than a true cave, the “Cave Of The Hands” is home to some of the best prehistoric cave art in the world.

Hundreds of human hands – 829 in all – have been stencilled on to the rock by blowing natural paint over them through a tubular piece of bone. All are male. One has six fingers.

There are animals and human figures, too.

It helps that the cave is located amidst the breathtaking scenery of the Rió Pinturas Canyon. And that the simple, hour-long tours in Spanish and English capture the story of how the hunter-gatherer communities responsible for the paintings lived their lives in this area.

Beautiful and utterly fascinating.

It’s pretty remote. Indeed, we arrived after an arduous nine-hour drive from El Chaltén to wild camp in the canyon the night before. Otherwise, you can book mini-bus or private tours from the town of Perito Moreno (not to be confused with the glacier of the same name).

READ MORE: The Prehistoric Rock Art Of Cueva De Las Manos

The churches of Chiloé, Chile

​UNESCO listing: Churches of Chiloé

They’re a fiercely independent lot, the Chilotes. Although they live on a series of islands just a short ferry journey from the Chilean port of Puerto Montt, their culture seems to belong to a different country altogether.

For a start, many of the Chilotes still embrace witchcraft and mythological creatures. And the early morning mist that drifts in like clockwork from the Pacific only serves to enhance the islands’ mystery.

However, it’s the presence of the 70-or-so beautifully constructed wooden churches that most visitors come to see. Inspired by the Jesuit Missions of the 17th and 18th Centuries, they’re mainly located in an area just to the north, south and east of the capital, Castro.

16 of them have been granted UNESCO World Heritage status. And a day or two spent visiting at least four or five is the perfect way to experience them.

Don’t miss the shingle-roofed Church of Nercón and the triple blue-towered masterpiece at Tenuán.

READ MORE: 6 Reasons To Visit The Extraordinary Chiloé Island

Valparaíso, Chile

UNESCO listing: Historic quarter of the seaport city of Valparaíso

The grungy, in-your-face half-brother of nearby Santiago, Valparaíso is a jumbled mess of decaying mansions, hilly streets connected by antique funicular railways, and corrugated metal facades that double as blank canvasses for the city’s street artists.

But it wasn’t always that way. During its 19th Century heyday as the continent’s major Pacific port, it was a bustling city and a magnet for European immigrants. But, following a major earthquake in 1906 and the opening of the Panama Canal, trade moved elsewhere and the city fell into major decline.

However, its recent resurgence has coincided with it being named as Chile’s cultural capital, attracting artists and cultural entrepreneurs from all over the country. To the point where it’s now firmly established on cruise ship itineraries. Meanwhile, tourists flock in to witness the extraordinary street art, bohemian neighbourhoods and unique buildings.

But it’s Valparaíso’s “industrial-age heritage associated with the international sea trade of the late 19th and 20th Centuries” that has earned the city its UNESCO recognition.

And, to be honest, we much preferred it as a destination to Santiago.

READ MORE: Discover Valparaíso & Its Amazing Street Art

Iguazú / Iguaçu National Parks, Argentina & Brazil

UNESCO listing: Iguazú National Park / Iguaçu National Park

Don’t even think about going to South America without paying a visit to these two national parks on either side of the border between Argentina and Brazil.

Home to the staggering Iguazú Falls (or “Iguaçu Falls” on the Brazilian side), the planet’s largest waterfall system, they’re firmly on the tourist trail. But, if you can put aside the inevitable crowds they’re an experience worth every ounce of effort it takes to get there.

Just don’t try and do everything in one day, though. We’d suggest you base yourself in the Argentinian border town of Puerto Iguazú, from where you can spend a full day on the Argentinian side of the falls. Then, the following day, you can take a bus across the border and see them from a totally different perspective on the Brazilian side.

Believe us, gazing upon the full panorama of the falls surrounding La Gargantua del Diablo (or “Devil’s Throat”) is an experience that will blow you away.

So get it on your Bucket List now!

READ MORE: Iguazú Falls & How To Make The Most Of Your Visit

Quebrada de Humahuaca, Argentina

UNESCO listing: Quebrada de Humahuaca

Although recognised for its 10,000-year history as an Incan trading route, it’s the rich colouring of the dramatic desert landscape that attracts visitors to this remote corner of northwest Argentina.

Following the Rió Grande for 155 kilometres, this spectacular valley is home to a wealth of prehistoric settlements set against a backdrop of vibrantly coloured hillsides.

Perhaps its most spectacular point is the Serranía de Hornocal. A high-altitude, mountainous landscape that stretches out like a huge necklace of multi-coloured shark teeth, it’s a surreal place to spend an hour or so. After which the altitude starts to take its toll.

Elsewhere, the trail that leads through the Quebrada de las Señoritas showcases a glorious mixture of red, white and grey rock mixed with a liberal sprinkling of huge green cacti.

Best explored by car, you can also get around just fine by public bus.

READ MORE: The Rainbow Mountains Of The Quebrada De Humahuaca

Sucre, Bolivia

UNESCO listing: Historic City of Sucre

The beautiful city of Sucre also happens to be the constitutional capital of Bolivia.

Recognised by UNESCO for its well-preserved historic centre, its buildings combine local traditions with the typical colonial architecture of the 16th and 17th Centuries.

We spent ten days in total there as it gave us an opportunity to experience true Bolivian culture in relative comfort. So, from our guest house accommodation in a colonial building overlooking the city we were able to buy our food from the fabulous daily market, and spend our days wandering around the atmospheric streets.

Jumping on a public minibus for the two-hour journey to Tarabuco and its Sunday Market is not to be missed, either. It features a colourfully chaotic weekly gathering of indigenous people from the local hillsides who descend on the town to buy and sell their foodstuffs and handicrafts. And come dressed in some of the most eclectic clothing you’ll find anywhere.

READ MORE: Tarabuco Market: In Search Of The Authentic Bolivia

Arequipa, Peru

UNESCO listing: Historical Centre of the City of Arequipa

We absolutely loved the historical centre of Arequipa.

Once again there’s a heavy Spanish colonial influence on the architecture. But, instead of the typically whitewashed walls, the buildings here are mainly constructed from the white and pink volcanic rock (known as “sillar”) of the surrounding area. As a result, they’re grand in scale. And especially beautiful in the soft glare of the late-afternoon sun, or when lit up at night.

But there’s so much more to the place than just the impressive aesthetics.

For instance, the sumptuous Monasterio Santa Catalina is a 20,000 square metre “city within a city” with its own cobbled streets and incredible history dating back to 1580.

And then there’s the food.

Revered as a gourmet destination throughout Peru, you’ll want to try at least one of its picanterias. They’re restaurants that serve lunch-time feasts of traditional food, washed down with a glass or two of corn-fermented chicha. And they’re so good we substituted a two-course lunch for one that stretched to eight.

Best of all, Arequipa is the gateway for trips to the astonishing Colca Canyon. And, after all that food, you’ll be glad of the opportunity to spend up to three days or so on one of the best hikes in South America.

READ MORE: 6 Essential Things To Do In Arequipa

Cusco, Peru

UNESCO listing: City of Cuzco

Completing a trio of outstanding cities, Cusco (or “Cuzco”) is the original capital of the Inca civilisation. Of which the evidence is everywhere.

And, when combined with the subsequent colonial-era architecture, it makes for a stunning mixture of cultures and design.

You won’t be the only tourist in town, however. The city is now one of the major tourist draws in South America. Especially as it also serves as a transport hub for the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.

We preferred Arequipa, if we’re honest. Mainly because of the tourist trappings that come with Cusco. Such as the massage parlour touts, the overpricing and the cholitas with baby alpacas in tow pushing photographs to passers-by.

That being said, with its history and Incan treasures to explore, you simply can’t ignore the city if you’re visiting Peru.

READ MORE: How To Spend 2 Days In The Inca Capital Of Cusco

Machu Picchu, Peru

UNESCO listing: Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu

Undoubtedly the most famous and most visited of the sites on our list, the Incan citadel at Machu Picchu is already likely to be on your travel bucket list.

But does it meet all the hype that surrounds it?

Absolutely. Affirmatively. Yes.

Yes, the crowds are off-putting. Yes, it’s expensive. And yes, it takes some planning and perseverance to do it all independently of a tour company. But, for the exhilarating sense of wonder as you gaze down on the citadel from the vantage point of Machu Picchu Mountain, it’s worth every piece of blood, sweat and tears it can take to get there.

We’ll admit, we were extremely lucky with the weather. Especially as we climbed Machu Picchu Mountain in brilliant early morning sunshine. But, in this mountainous region, the weather is pretty unpredictable at any time of the year.

The good news is that we’ve produced a detailed guide on how to plan your visit. So now you’ve got no excuse. Don’t miss it!

READ MORE: How To Plan Your Machu Picchu Experience

Huascarán National Park, Peru

UNESCO listing: Huascarán National Park

Peru’s answer to Chile and Argentina’s Patagonian national parks, Huascarán is home to highest tropical mountain range in the world.

And with no less than 660 tropical glaciers, 330 glacial lakes and enough trails through exceptional high altitude wilderness to keep even the most intrepid hikers happy, it’s the adventure capital of Peru.

We managed to complete two day hikes to Laguna 69 and the glorious Laguna Paron. But we’ll admit we’ve unfinished business in the park as the multi-day Santa Cruz and Huayhash circuits beckon.

Fun fact: the snow-covered Mount Artesonraju was the inspiration for the iconic Paramount Pictures logo. And it can be seen in all its glory at Laguna Paron.

READ MORE: Laguna Paron: The Most Beautiful Lake You’ve Never Heard Of

San Agustín Archaeological Park, Colombia

UNESCO listing: San Agustín Archaeological Park

Effectively an open air museum displaying works of art from a pre-Colombian civilisation that flourished between 1500 and 2000 years ago. Home to the largest group of prehistoric monuments and structures in Latin America. And set amidst a stunning mountainous backdrop.

It should be one of the major tourist draws in Colombia. But, because of its relative remoteness and the decades-long armed conflict that plagued this area of the country, it’s largely untroubled by international tourism.

Which means you should make the effort to add it to your Colombian itinerary without hesitation.

The park and its surroundings can be explored on foot, horseback and by jeep. Or, indeed, all three. There are over 300 statues spread over 50 square kilometres, depicting human figures, gods, mythical animals and human/animal hybrids. And they’re fascinating to see at close quarters.

Even if archaeological sites are not your thing, we’d recommend visiting this relatively unknown part of Colombia anyway. Especially if you like the idea of exploring the countryside on horseback.

READ MORE: The Archaeological Wonders Of San Agustín

Coffee cultural landscape of Colombia

UNESCO listing: Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia

Coffee growing is big business in many parts of South America, Africa and Asia. But perhaps nowhere has the iconic status of the coffee farms of Colombia.

The area south of Medellín, known as “Zona Cafeteria”, brims with small coffee growing businesses whose small plots hug the mountainous hillsides. Meanwhile, the towns and villages of the region are embellished with Spanish colonial buildings decorated in the traditional Antioquian style. Which means the extravagant use of colour.

Not surprisingly, it’s one of Colombia’s top three tourist areas. And with coffee farm tours to book, gorgeous colonial-era towns to visit and fantastic countryside to explore, you can easily spend a week or more succumbing to its charms.

If we were pressed to recommend one standout place we’d suggest the town of Salamina and the nearby Samaria Valley. A true working town rather than one that’s geared to tourism, it ticks all the boxes when to comes to coffee culture, unique food and stunning countryside. But it also comes without the crowds.

And at Alto Bonito, we found ourselves in the company of our gregarious Airbnb host who took us on his own personal tour of the town.

READ MORE: Salamina & The Samaria Valley: Colombia’s Best Kept Secret

Santa Cruz de Mompox, Colombia

UNESCO listing: Historic Centre of Santa Cruz de Mompox

Colombia is proud of its colonial-era towns and the traditional culture that surrounds them. So much so that 17 of them have been designated as Pueblos Patrimonio or “Heritage Towns”. Which typically means they’re modest in size with colonial-era buildings that are both well-preserved and have significant historical significance.

Santa Cruz de Mompox, in a remote area of Colombia’s far north, is one of its prime examples.

Its chequered history is littered with tales of opulence followed by isolation and abject poverty, to periods of extreme violence. But throughout it all, the gorgeous historic centre and, in particular, its stunning churches have remained intact.

As has the traditional manufacture of fine filigree jewellery, a remnant from its colonial past when the town was awash with gold and silver, and even minted coins for the colony.

Over the past decade or so, tourism has begun to take a foothold. And, as road connections improve, that will undoubtedly continue. Indeed, with direct bus connections from Cartagena and Santa Marta on the Caribbean coast (5 hours), it’s more accessible than ever.

Which is reason enough to put it on your list of Colombian places to visit. Because, as an example of what a Spanish colonial-era town was originally like, Santa Cruz de Mompox is probably the country’s finest.

READ MORE: Mompox - Colombia’s Forgotten Colonial Gem

Cartagena, Colombia

UNESCO listing: Port, fortresses and group of monuments, Cartagena

And so, we end our whistle stop tour along the length of South America on the continent’s northern Caribbean coast.

Unlike, Santa Cruz de Mompox, Cartagena is no hidden Colombian gem. It’s a regular cruise ship favourite and attracts both international and domestic tourists in their thousands throughout the year.

But there’s no doubting its considerable attractions. UNESCO recognition was achieved largely because of its magnificent fortifications, which are the most extensive in South America. But the sublime architecture of its colonial-era buildings, together with its extensive shopping and nightlife possibilities makes it an essential stop on any Colombian trip.

Most people head for the beguiling Old Town and Latin America’s version of Miami Beach at Bocagrande. But the Getsemani district is an appealing bohemian mix of street art, boutique guest houses and small-scale eating places. And Manga is a great and convenient option for a good night’s sleep away from the noise.

READ MORE: Colourful Cartagena - A Travel Guide In Photos

Final thoughts

Having so far visited 17 of the 72 UNESCO-recognised sites in South America (the other two were Lima, Peru and Potosí, Bolivia), we’re eager to move on to experience some of the others on the list.

Such as the Valdes Pensinsula in Argentina, the Rapa Nui National Park on Easter Island and, of course, the Galápagos Islands of Ecuador.

Suffice to say, we’re advocates of using the list as a starting point to plot a trip in any country or continent.

And we hope we might just have inspired you to visit at least one of those we’ve featured here.

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

If you’re anything like us, researching, planning and then dreaming about a once-in-a-lifetime trip is as good for the soul as anything. And we’ve been lucky enough to do that without ever having to stop.

As far as we’re concerned, the Andes Mountain Range in South America would be an unbeatable once-in-a-lifetime choice. At 8900 kilometres (5500 miles) in length, from the Caribbean coast of Venezuela to the ice fields of southern Patagonia, it represents travel on a truly epic scale. In fact, if you’re a fan of the outdoors and jaw-dropping scenery, we reckon it should be at the top of your travel wish list.

And, to get you in the mood, we’ve developed an Andean photographic journey for your armchair-viewing pleasure. Running from north to south, it’s a bewildering world of jungle clad mountains, high plateaus, plunging canyons, smoking volcanoes, craggy peaks and enormous glaciers.

So grab your virtual flight ticket, pack your imaginary backpack and escape the perils of lockdown with us on this journey of a lifetime.

You can enhance the journey by following along on Google Earth. Once you’ve opened the software in a separate tab, just enter each of the location headings into the search box as you scroll through the post. You’ll soon find yourself being whisked away from your armchair high above the Andes, before dropping in for a closer look in full 3D glory.

We’ve also included links for each location within the post itself.

If you don’t have Google Earth downloaded on to your device, you can do so here – it’s free.

Páramo De Ocetá - Boyaca, Colombia

Go there with Google Earth

The world’s most beautiful páramo

Following a long flight, we touch down in Bucaramanga, capital of Colombia’s Santander region. And then it’s straight on to the first of three buses as we head off for the mountain pueblo of Monguí in the extreme north of the Andes.

Translated from the indigenous Muisca language as The Wife’s Bath, it’s a high-altitude town boasting gorgeous Spanish colonial-era architecture.

But it’s the incredible wetlands of the Páramo de Ocetá we’ve come to see. A fifteen-kilometre round trip hike from the centre of town, ascending 1000 metres in the process, it’s a wondrous landscape of open moorland pitted with huge moisture-retaining plants called frailejones.

You’ll be glad of the muscle rub you brought with you once you’ve taken off your hiking boots at the end of it all. You did remember to bring it, didn’t you?

READ MORE: Monguí And The World’s Most Beautiful Páramo

San Agustín - Huila, Colombia

Go there with Google Earth

Discover your inner Indiana Jones

Suitably refreshed after overnighting in Monguí, we catch another couple of buses to Bogotá before continuing on the long journey down to San Agustín in Colombia’s southwest.

There we hire horses and ride through a stunning lush green landscape of coffee plantations, waterfalls and river valleys. And, while we do so, we seek out and gaze upon dozens of mysterious prehistoric statues, tombs and terraces erected by an ancient North Andean civilisation some 2000 years ago.

READ MORE: The Archaeological Wonders Of San Agustín

Volcán Cotopaxi - Cotopaxi, Ecuador

Go there with Google Earth

One of the world’s highest active volcanoes

The next day, we take a morning bus from San Agustín across a mountainous and pot-hole-ravaged road to Popayán where we catch a four-hour flight to Quito, the capital of Ecuador.

Our fingers are tightly crossed for a clear day as the skyline behind the city is dominated by the majestic and iconic Volcán Cotopaxi, a conical volcano that has erupted no less than 79 times. Most recently in 2015.

This time, instead of hiking up to its summit or trotting about on horseback, we opt for a jeep ride up to a car park at 4500 metres before jumping on a bicycle for the 8 kilometre white knuckle ride back down.

Laguna Paron - Parque Nacional Huascarán, Peru

Go there with Google Earth

The most beautiful lake you’ve never heard of

Eschewing the 32-hour bus journey to Huaraz in Peru, we instead catch a flight from Quito to Lima, from where we pick up a bus for the eight-hour journey back up north.

And, just when we thought we’d like to take a rest from all that high altitude thin air, we now find ourselves wandering amongst the second-highest mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca.

It’s a land of incredible alpine scenery, brilliant-white glaciers and ultra-blue glacial lakes. Typified beautifully by our easily accessible day trip to Laguna Paron in Huascarán National Park.

With an impossibly mineral-rich expanse of turquoise water set against a backdrop of jagged snow-covered peaks, it’s a photographer’s dream.

And that pyramid-shaped snowy peak we can see at the back of the lake? That’ll be Mount Artesonraju, which served as the inspiration for the iconic Paramount Pictures logo.

READ MORE: Laguna Paron: The Most Beautiful Lake You’ve Never Heard Of

Machu Picchu - Eastern Cordillera, Peru

Go there with Google Earth

The world’s most famous archaeological site

After taking the overnight bus back to Lima we jump on an internal flight to the ancient Inca capital of Cusco, gateway to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.

Because money’s no object on our virtual tour, we splurge a little and book ourselves on to the Belmond Hiram Bingham train to take us from Cusco to Aguas Calientes. Complete with its period Pulman-style carriages.

The following morning we catch the shuttle bus up to the citadel of Machu Picchu, before hiking to the top of Machu Picchu Mountain for what is quite possibly the most iconic view in South America.

All the while, we’ve obsessed about whether we’d be lucky with the weather as much of the time the rugged mountain landscape in these parts is enshrouded in clouds. But we needn’t have worried. The first rays of the sun greet us as we arrive at the citadel gates at dawn. And, very soon, the ghostly shadows cast by the imposing peaks give way to brilliant green jungle and clear blue skies.

READ MORE: How To Plan Your Machu Picchu Experience

Colca Canyon - Colca Valley, Peru

Go there with Google Earth

The world’s second-deepest canyon

After taking a more modest train back to Cusco, we head west by bus to the beautiful city of Arequipa. Built from the pink, volcanic stone of the surrounding area, it’s a fabulous place to rest for the night, sip one or two pisco sours and enjoy the superb local food.

The next day we catch an early-morning bus for the six-hour journey to Cabanaconde and the Colca Canyon. It’s the second-deepest canyon in the world, which means that it even dwarfs that famous one in Arizona.

Not a place to be rushed then. So we pick up our hiking map and walking poles from our accommodation at the Pachamama Hostel for the three-day hike down to the bottom of the canyon and back up again. Stopping off along the way to rest aching muscles in hot thermal baths alongside the Colca River.

But, before we leave, we stop off at the Cruz del Condor viewpoint to watch in amazement as huge Andean Condors take flight from their nests to soar on the early morning thermals.

READ MORE: A Three Day Guide To The Astonishing Colca Canyon

Lake Titicaca - Bolivia

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The world’s highest navigable lake

Back in Arequipa, we catch an overnight tourist bus to Lake Titicaca, crossing over into Bolivia and the lakeside town of Copacabana.

At an altitude of 3,800 metres, it’s the highest navigable lake in the world. And so we jump on a ferry to takes us to Isla del Sol, a road-free island on the lake which is said to be the birthplace of the Incas.

After clambering up the steep Inca Steps to our accommodation in Yumani, we wander along the footpaths that stretch along the coastline. All the while, trying to catch our breath in the energy-sapping high altitude.

But the views across the lake to the snowy mountains of the Cordillera Real make the effort thoroughly worthwhile.

READ MORE: How To Visit Isla Del Sol On Lake Titicaca

Laguna Colorada - Bolivia

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A pink lake with pink flamingoes

There’s no time to rest though as we’ve got a four-day road trip odyssey through some of the most sublime scenery on the planet to get on with.

We continue by tourist bus to the city of La Paz, where we catch an internal flight to Tarija in the far south of the country. And then it’s a hair-raising five-hour minivan journey to the desert town of Tupiza.

Notorious for being the place where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were mowed down by The Law at their desert holdout, it’s the starting point for a wild four-wheel-drive jeep tour of Bolivia’s “southwest circuit”.

One of the highlights is the unbelievably colourful Laguna Colorada. A mixture of pink and red hues, the shallow lake is a favourite haunt for three types of flamingo and the ubiquitous herds of llamas.

After which, our camera batteries completely discharge with overuse and so we head off to stay the night at a hostel built entirely from salt.

Salar De Uyuni - Southwest Bolivia

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The world’s largest salt flat

And the reason for that salt is the nearby Salar de Uyuni (or Uyuni Salt Flats). Indeed, we’re awoken from our saline-induced slumber before dawn and set out in our jeep across the vast openness of the salt flat. Our destination is the cactus-filled rocky outcrop of Isla Incahuasi to witness the sunrise casting an ethereal glow over the otherworldly landscape.

And then it’s onwards for some high jinks taking perspective-defying photographs of each other before we finish our tour at the town of Uyuni.

READ MORE: A Four Day Odyssey To The Uyuni Salt Flats

Serranía de Hornocal - Northwest Argentina

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Multi-coloured mountain landscape

Not a place to hang around in for long, we leave Uyuni almost immediately and take a minivan across the border to Chile and San Pedro de Atacama. It’s here that we say goodbye to public transportation to pick up our camper van. It’ll be our home for the remaining 4500 kilometres (2800 miles) of our journey so we buy a couple of extra pillows. Better safe than sorry.

Without further ado, we head eastward through the Atacama Desert to the Argentinian border and down into the Quebrada de Humahuaca. It’s a staggering landscape of red rocks, huge cacti and multi-coloured mountains. None more so than Serraniá de Hornocal, which at 4300 metres is a gasp-inducing spectacle for a number of reasons.

READ MORE: The Rainbow Mountains Of The Quebrada De Humahuaca

Quebrada De Cafayate - Salta, Argentina

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Sandstone mountains and green valleys

From here it’s a continuous journey south, following the spine of the Andes along the infamous roads of Argentina’s Ruta 40 and Chile’s Carretera Austral.

From the Quebrada de Humahuaca we bypass the Andean heritage town of Salta before passing through the red rock formations and green pastures of the Quebrada de Cafayate.

The payoff is in store when we finally arrive in Cafayate, northwest Argentina’s wine-producing capital. Time then to explore the town’s wineries and sample the best Torrontes we’ve ever tasted. Even the ice cream is made with it.

Cordillera De Ansilta - San Juan, Argentina

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The High Andes separating Chile from Argentina

From Cafayate down to Barreal, 1000 kilometres south, the desert scenery resembles a John Ford western on a monumental scale.

In fact, the landscapes are so vast and rugged that it’s easy to imagine herds of enormous dinosaurs roaming freely around us. Which apparently they did back in the day, as evidenced by the extensive remains in Parque Nacional Talampaya.

Eventually, after several nights of wild desert camping, we arrive at Barreal. With views across to the mighty Cordillera de Ansilta range that separates Argentina from Chile, it’s a place to slow down for a while before moving on.

Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi - SW Argentinian

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Argentina’s lake district

Continuing south, we bypass Argentina’s other wine-producing region of Mendoza and head towards Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi in northern Patagonia.

Home to one of Argentina’s most up-market holiday resorts, Bariloche, it’s a lake-filled region of striking beauty. And perfect for lakeside BBQs from our camper van with the odd bottle of Mendoza Malbec.

Volcán Osorno - Los Lagos Region, Chile

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Perfectly conical volcano in Chile’s lake district

We now head westward and across the border to the Chilean side of what’s commonly known as the Lake District.

We’ve also entered a region that’s rich in volcanoes, some of which have been recently active to devastating effect. One of the most picturesque is the conical Volcán Osorno, which separates the twin lakes of Todos los Santos and Llanquihue.

Las Capillas De Mármol - Chilean Patagonia

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The Marble Caves of Chilean Patagonia

And then it’s onwards towards the Carretera Austral, the notorious gravel road constructed by Genera Pinochet’s regime in an attempt to connect north and south Patagonia. Nowadays, much of it has been paved. But it remains one of the world’s best road trips.

We spend several days driving along its mountainous route, stopping occasionally to hike to smoking volcanoes, hanging glaciers, and glacial lakes. Eventually, we arrive at Puerto Rio Tranquilo, on the shore of Lago General Carrera, to take a short boat ride to see the revered Capillas de Mármol.

These strikingly coloured caves are the handiwork of thousands of years of wind-powered waves carving into a peninsula of solid marble. And they’re a photographer’s wet dream.

READ MORE: The Marble Caves Of Chilean Patagonia

Lago General Carrera - Chilean Patagonia

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Chile’s largest lake

Indeed, the whole area surrounding Lago General Carrera, Chile’s largest lake, is extremely photogenic. And, as we leave the Carretera Austral and head back towards the Argentinian border, we make a point of stopping wherever we can to take in the scenery.

As in this viewpoint near to Puerto Guadal.

Mount Fitz Roy - Argentinian Patagonia

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The jewel of southern Patagonia

Once we’ve crossed back over into Argentina at Chile Chico, we eventually rejoin Ruta 40 for the long drive south through relentlessly dry steppe. Only stopping for a side trip to see the fascinating prehistoric hand paintings of Cueva de las Manos. Otherwise, there’s little incentive to stop.

So we battle on over increasingly brutal gravel until we find the turnoff for El Chalten, Argentina’s frontier town for southern Patagonia. Happily, the road leading to El Chalten is quite simply the most dramatic stretch of tarmac imaginable.

Having left the monotonous grey flatness of the steppe behind, the landscape is now transformed into one of craggy mountains, lakes, forests and glaciers. And, all the while, the imposing drama of Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre’s triple towers plays out in front of us, increasingly filling our view as we inch nearer.

We’ll hang around El Chalten for a few days as the hiking here is some of the best in the whole of Patagonia.

READ MORE: El Chalten: The Jewel In Patagonia’s Crown

Perito Moreno Glacier - Argentinian Patagonia

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Mind-blowing glacier that is still advancing

But if you thought that was dramatic, wait until you see what’s in store at our next destination.

It’s a three-hour drive from El Chalten to El Calafate, which serves as a gateway to the colossal Perito Moreno Glacier. It’s one of the few glaciers in the world that’s still advancing rather than retreating. And we’ll not only be able to appreciate its sheer scale from close-up vantage points, but we’ll also be donning crampons to hike on the glacier itself.

Despite everything we’ve already seen on this epic Andean journey, this might just be the spectacle that tops them all. And any doubts are erased completely when we witness a huge chunk of ice the size of a house dislodge from the glacier wall and crash into the lake below.

Just mesmerising.

READ MORE: The Fabulous Perito Moreno Glacier: A Complete Guide

Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine - Southern Chile

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Patagonia’s hiking capital

And then we head back into Chile for our final destination, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Patagonia’s ultimate playground. Time for one last hike amongst stunning scenery.

By now, the overland journey in our camper van all the way from the deserts of northern Chile has taken its toll. We’re cold and lacking in sleep. Our bones are in need of some respite from the rutted gravel roads of the past few days. And the pillows we bought at the beginning have now been reduced to a lumpy, uncomfortable mess.

But we’ve not come this far to give up now. We awaken to an extra-strong mug of coffee and stiffen ourselves for one final challenge.

As we hike, we reminisce about what we’ve witnessed on this incredible journey through the length of the Andes Mountains.

And we wonder if we’ll see anything to remotely match it ever again.

READ MORE: How To Explore Torres Del Paine National Park In A Camper Van

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

‘Despite my attempts to hold them closed for a full 30 minutes, the two heavy wooden doors finally gave way to Hurricane Irma and burst open, only to slam shut again with my fingers trapped between them.

I dropped to the floor holding my left hand and pulled off the glove I’d only just put on to improve my grip. My index finger was a bloody mess, smashed and partially severed. I screamed through a combination of agonising pain and physical tiredness. Thankfully, Lauren had the presence of mind to find a first aid kit from a bedroom close by, while Nicky screamed at me to crawl across to an adjacent closet containing just a toilet, sink and about 20 square feet of living space.

Between them, Nicky and Lauren managed to slam the closet door shut behind them, while the two doors standing between us and the largest hurricane to ever make landfall in the Caribbean were ripped from their hinges.

It was then that I passed out.’

Introduction

In 2017 we were lucky enough to book a housesit on the island of Tortola, in the British Virgin Islands, for a six-month assignment between May and November. Looking after four cats and providing security for the house, we enjoyed a blissful summer in a gorgeous house with beautiful surroundings.

Of course, the summer months in this part of the Caribbean are also prone to Atlantic storms and hurricanes, which usually form in the eastern Atlantic before heading westward, increasing in intensity along the way.

In September 2017, our stay coincided with the largest Atlantic hurricane to ever make landfall as it smashed into Tortola and elsewhere, sewing widespread destruction in its wake.

This is our story of what happened on that fateful afternoon and the chaotic days that followed.

Part One: The Eye Of The Storm

Preparing for the worst

Of course, hurricanes don’t just suddenly appear without warning. We were well aware of Hurricane Irma’s growing threat days before it actually struck the British Virgin Islands (BVI), thanks to websites such as the National Hurricane Centre and Windy. BVI’s Department of Disaster Management provided us with updates, too. Together with advice on preparation and the government’s plans to combat the storm.

As house sitters on the main island of Tortola, we were also in regular contact with our hosts in the US. So, in the days leading up to 6 September 2017, we prepared for the worst by removing anything surrounding the house which might be picked up by the wind as a projectile – plant pots, gardening equipment, a pagoda, ornaments etc. Anything too heavy to move, we strapped to balustrades. We didn’t board up the windows as they were installed as hurricane-proof, reinforced with hurricane shutters protecting all of the entry points to the house and outbuildings.

Elsewhere on the island, we’d seen and heard plenty of hammering and drilling as locals did what they could to put up protective barriers on their properties. Meanwhile, boat owners had moved their yachts and motorboats from their original moorings to sheltered waters.

We knew that the island’s electricity power would be affected so we made sure we had a good supply of diesel to fuel our generator. We stocked up on food and bottled water. And we made sure we had emergency supplies to hand such as torches, a first aid kit, candles etc.

We felt we were prepared.

In fact, so prepared that we happily relaxed over a cocktail or two on the eve of Irma’s arrival.

All the projections said it would be a massive Category 5 hurricane, which means a minimum sustained wind speed of 157 mph. Only the projections for Irma were for sustained wind speeds of 185 mph, and gusts of up to 250 mph. So, as it approached, our only concern was whether Irma would pass north or south of the island, or whether it would pass directly over us.

Awaiting the inevitable

The early morning of the 6 September was a calm one on Tortola. The sky was typically blue, except for some scattered clouds. And there was just the merest hint of a breeze, which was standard for an island that’s caressed by the westerly trade winds for most of the year.

Normally, there would be just Nicky and I having breakfast overlooking the Sir Francis Drake Channel. But this morning we’d been joined by Lauren, an acquaintance of ours on the island, who we’d invited to stay for the duration of the forthcoming storm rather than try and ride it out on her own.

After breakfast, we completed the final checks around the house, clamped the hurricane shutters and locked ourselves inside, together with the four cats we were looking after. We’d decided that the best place to stay was the first-floor lounge, behind a set of hurricane shutters, where we would also have access to two potential safe spaces should the situation become dangerous.

So, for the next few hours, we sat comfortably on sofas, checking the news and social media channels for updates on Irma.

As the morning drifted on it became more and more apparent that the eye of the hurricane, containing the very worst of the storm, was going to pass directly over us. Nicky posted some video footage of the strengthening wind on Facebook and we began to get media enquiries from Sweden, Canada, the US and the UK for our on-the-ground perspective. Along with increasingly anxious Facebook messages from friends and family watching the hurricane approach us live on TV.

Looking out through the windows, it was clear that the wind speed was accelerating. A papaya tree had already been uprooted and crashed into the property’s swimming pool. A large mango tree had collapsed in the drive onto the roof of a car. The sea below us was surging in all directions. Trees in front of us were swaying back and forth, to the point where at times they were almost horizontal. And the air was matted with flying debris, mostly dislodged foliage from the surrounding jungle.

Although we’d felt relatively calm for most of the morning, there was now a palpable sense of increasing anxiety as the storm around us intensified.

Irma arrives

We decided it was time to move to a safer area as the eye was still 30 minutes away and the situation was only likely to worsen. Nicky was distracted for a moment by a message from NBC wanting to arrange an interview with us within the next few minutes.

But all our preparations and relative calmness were shattered when the double exit doors connecting the first-floor lounge to the external patio area blew open. Our place of sanctuary was now exposed to the full force of the storm. And from this moment, we switched to operating on gut instinct rather than following a plan.

My first reaction was to rush over to the doors and slam them shut. The wind was spiralling violently and seemed hell-bent on forcing the doors open again. My grip on the two doorknobs became increasingly tenuous as my hands moistened with sweat. In an attempt to strengthen it, Nicky and Lauren found some rope, tied it around one of the doorknobs and attached it to some metal railings at the top of the stairs. Nicky also found some gardening gloves for additional grip.

At least four times, the doors blew open again, almost dragging me outside and into the full force of the wind. Nicky and Lauren had identified the closet over the hallway as the safest place for us to retreat to. In fact, Nicky was begging me to let go of the doors. But my one thought was that they were the only things protecting us from the killer winds outside.

And then, as tiredness was setting in, another almighty gust blew the doors open once more before slamming shut again, catching the index finger of my left hand in the process. The decision had now been made for us as we retreated to the small closet.

Riding out the storm

Our priority was to secure the room and Nicky to dress my injury. So, while Lauren held the door, Nicky bandaged my finger tightly to stem the flow of blood. Lauren had also had the foresight to collect a couple of cushions from the sofa which were used to lay my head on as I passed out for a few minutes.

Nicky then joined Lauren holding the door closed as the worst of the hurricane raged through the lounge. We could hear windows smashing and furniture crashing around the room as 225 mph winds ripped through the house. The closet door banged continuously as they tried desperately to keep it shut. And the noise was petrifying.

Two additional problems soon became apparent. First, water started seeping in from under the door. And second, there was the smoke. Our only choice was to place the cushions against the door, which thankfully worked. We established afterwards that the smoke was probably caused by water getting into exposed sockets after their plugs had been ripped out.

It felt like the whole house was shaking. Almost as if we were in the midst of an earthquake rather than a storm. And we could feel our ears popping, which we presumed was due to the frequent changes in atmospheric pressure.

We’d expected a lull – a short period of calm while Irma’s eye passed over us. And we’d planned to use that time to collect food and painkillers from downstairs. Indeed, from the small window in the closet, we could see a pocket of blue sky as the eye approached. But the lull never came. The ferocious winds just carried on. What's more, we were riding the wall of the hurricane to the side of the eye. So not only were we in the midst of the biggest Atlantic hurricane ever, but we were also being subjected to an extended onslaught of the worst part of the storm.

For the next TEN HOURS, we sat tight in the tiny room, exhausted, frightened and hoping that the winds would finally abate. Nicky and Lauren took it, in turn, to hold the door closed, not taking any risks with the sudden gusts that continued to haunt us.

At around 10 pm, they took their first tentative steps back into the lounge to survey the damage and look for an opportunity to collect some provisions. Happy that the worst of the wind had subsided, they managed to gather enough for us to curb our hunger and regain our strength, together with some blankets to help us get some sleep. And enough cognac for me to drink as an anaesthetic against the pain.

We also looked for the four cats. Two had escaped through a door earlier, though we presumed they were hiding in their usual space under the house. The whereabouts of the other two were still a mystery. But without light, it was impossible to search for them until dawn.

Having decided that the closet would still be the safest place for us to rest, we stayed there until around 5 am before we again ventured out to look around the house. To our relief, the other two cats had taken refuge in our downstairs bedroom and were unharmed.

Dawn was starting to break as we wondered what sort of scene we’d be confronted with once we stepped outside. At that moment, a figure appeared at an opening where a window used to be.

“Welcome to the Caribbean!” beamed our neighbour, Barrie, who’d clearly not lost his sense of humour.

Hurricane Irma had passed and was on her way to wreak havoc elsewhere. For us, we were just glad to have survived. But, as we wandered outside into the daylight, it became ominously clear that our problems were far from over.

Part Two: Aftermath

Day One: Assessing the damage

A gentle breeze was all that remained of the Category 5 hurricane as it quietly whistled its way through the open spaces of the house. As such, it allowed us to look around and assess the damage.

Windows had smashed or been blown out of their frames. External doors had been ripped from their hinges. And heavy furniture had been tossed around like toys. The walls of each room were also covered with the smelly remains of vegetation.

The house itself was structurally fine, including the concrete roof – something we could be thankful for. Otherwise, we would have been exposed to the worst Irma could throw at us.

But outside was a different matter.

The elevated position of the house had once boasted panoramic views over the heavily forested hills of Tortola and across the Sir Francis Drake Channel to the US Virgin Islands. Views that had been dominated by the sparkling blue of the sea and the lush green of the hillsides.

Not anymore.

Where there had been thick forests there were now just bare, barkless tree trunks, their branches reduced to the occasional outstretched finger of wood as if gasping for breath. The dominant colours on display had changed from blue and green to blue and brown. It was an apocalyptic image that encapsulated the destructive force of Irma.

Before

After

During the morning, our neighbour, Barrie, whose house had been badly damaged, arrived to brief us on what he saw as our priorities. He’d lived with his wife, Arabella, on the island for 12 years. And, although he'd not experienced a hurricane of this magnitude, he had a good idea of what the government response would be and what some of the likely outcomes were. The picture he painted was an alarming one.

He said the government would probably take four or five days to get its act together and restore communications. Help was not likely to arrive before then, so we had to look out for ourselves. Law and order were likely to become an issue, with looting a real problem. And, as we were in quite an isolated setting, we were prime targets.

Power supplies would be down for weeks, so we needed to conserve as much diesel as we could to fuel the generator for the house. We would combine our food and water resources and run the fridges and freezers on limited generator power to keep everything from going off.

And, as we had no immediate way of getting off the hill, my partly-severed finger would need to be patched together with superglue to stop infection. If I needed an incentive to get to a hospital in record time, that was it! The dressing Nicky had applied to it during the height of Irma hadn’t been sterilised, nor had the wound been cleaned, so getting proper medical attention was becoming our number one priority.

The dressing may have been blood-soaked, but at least there was no more potential infection from the moist, humid air.

And the superglue was definitely staying in the drawer!

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The hospital in Road Town was a good 30-minute drive away. But the steep, winding road down to the coast from our elevated plot was difficult to negotiate at the best of times. And now it was impassable as trees, cacti, telegraph poles and boulders blocked its path.

Barrie didn’t wait to get started with his chainsaw. Unable to assist, I helped Nicky and Lauren clear debris from the kitchen and our bedroom to provide some manageable living space.

After the previous tortuous, sleepless night, it was mentally and physically exhausting. Nevertheless, Barrie managed to cut through to the first of four bends in the road before he had to call it a day.

As sunset approached, Barrie and Arabella arrived together with the contents of their food cupboard. And a healthy appetite. We switched our generator on for a few hours, took it in turn to shower and then shared a meal of pasta and some chilli-con-carne I’d made a couple of days earlier.

We even managed the odd bottle of wine between us.

We figured we deserved it.

Day Two: Digging our way out

The next morning, Barrie was up early and ready to tackle the next road section with his chainsaw. Only this time, Nicky wasn't prepared to let another day go by without me receiving proper medical attention (even though we didn’t know if the island’s hospital would be open). So our road recovery team got its second member, while Lauren and I continued to clean up the kitchen.

Undoubtedly, one of the most exhilarating sights of this whole saga was Nicky returning to the house some hours later with her arms raised in a triumphant salute. The wide grin on her face confirmed what I'd hoped for – they’d made it far enough down the hill to make it passable for Barrie's truck.

Someone had told them that Peebles Hospital was open, too

Within half an hour, we were on our way. We reached the coast road and turned towards the capital, Road Town. The road was in a bad state with large cracks and holes, together with lots of debris that had slipped down from the surrounding hills.

We reached the residential area of Sea Cow’s Bay and were astonished by the amount of destruction to houses, power lines and vehicles. Roofs had gone, walls had collapsed and people were trying to begin the impossible task of cleaning up.

We were surprised by the amount of traffic, too. It seemed like there were whole families crammed into cars, some of whom appeared to be merely sightseeing and slowing down to take photographs, apparently oblivious to the frustrated drivers behind them.

And then, as Barrie had predicted, we saw the looters.

Cars were double-parked outside a supermarket, wrapped in a mangled steel bow. Men and women rushed in and out with packed shopping trolleys. Some didn’t even bother with that as they headed straight to the drinks aisle and emerged with boxes of cheap beer and spirits. Then a truck arrived with a gang of mask-wearing youths in the back. Needless to say, we didn’t hang around. It was the first time we’d felt a real sense of menace.

We continued through the rubble and the destruction until we reached the hospital. As expected, the scene was chaotic. There seemed to be hundreds of people milling around both inside and outside the building. Our first point of call was with the triage nurse to have the dressing replaced. It was the first time my finger had been exposed to fresh air since the time it had been smashed between those doors. And it hurt like crazy.

I needed to see a doctor but that didn't look likely. We were told by three nurses that, because more than 12 hours had now expired since the injury (in fact, it was 48 hours), they would not stitch it and the wound would have to heal by itself. Each time, the nurse unwrapped the dressing to look at the finger. And each time, my resistance to the excruciating pain took a nosedive.

Thanks to Nicky’s persistence, and her insistence on not taking “No” for an answer, we finally (after six hours) managed to see a doctor, who agreed to apply the stitches. It was one more extended period of pain to endure, but it had to be done. I’ll be eternally grateful to the wonderful Dr Stoutt, who was working voluntarily through the crisis to help people like me – many with much worse injuries. We also overheard other medical staff who’d been working non-stop at the hospital since before the hurricane and hadn’t even been home to see their families.

Unfortunately, there was a FOUR HOUR waiting list for prescriptive drugs and Barrie was anxious to get back before dark because of the challenge of driving up our hill. I’d have to rely instead on our small supply of paracetamol tablets and antibiotics.

Back at the house, we were met by Gareth, a neighbour further down the hill. He’d cycled up to us to check we were ok and tell us he’d spoken to our house owners back in the US who'd put the word out on social media that we were safe. He also told us about the wider devastation to BVI and the scale of the media coverage from all over the world.

But then came the bombshell. A major new threat in the form of Hurricane José – a Category 4 storm - was heading straight for us.

Day Three: Hurricane José approaches

The following morning began as another calm, clear day. But, feeling vulnerable to another storm, we needed to establish what threats Hurricane José would present us with.

Apart from what we’d heard from Gareth and an official at the hospital, we’d had no information about it, or when communications or power would be restored. There was no internet and no phone signal. Everything Barrie had told us about the government response appeared to be coming true.

Apart from the odd reconnaissance aeroplane, we’d seen no activity in the air or at sea. So, the sudden appearance of a group of small boats speeding across the Sir Francis Drake Channel was a welcome sight. We’ve no idea who they were or where they were going but, for us, it was a small step in the right direction.

Our moment of reflection was suddenly interrupted by the cackle of a voice coming from a megaphone. It was coming from a van passing on the coast road below us. But, already starved of information, we struggled to hear what the voice was saying over the rumbling of our generator.

I decided the only option was to race down the hill on foot and catch up with the van – which I did. The guy on the megaphone was warning about the approach of Hurricane José later that evening and urging residents to take shelter by the newly-imposed 6 pm curfew. I flagged down the van and asked the crew if José would be a direct hit, just like Irma. They said they didn’t know but confirmed it would be a Category 4 hurricane (sustained winds up to 157 mph) and that there would be a lot of rain.

I also spoke to some locals whose homes had been severely damaged. They were terrified that the storm might follow the same route as Irma and were boarding up their open windows and patching up their roofs as best they could. Just when everyone thought they could focus on restoring their homes and trying to re-establish some sense of a normal life, another potential disaster was already looming.

Returning home, I gave the bad news to Nicky, Barrie and Lauren. Our house was still wide open from the impact of Irma, so we’d have to board up as many windows and doors as possible. We decided the best place to sit out the storm would be in our bedroom. Although one of the windows had blown out during Irma and the floor had been temporarily flooded, it had still suffered less damage than other rooms in the house.

Again, Nicky had to help with all the heavy work by retrieving plywood and planks from a store below the house. Meanwhile, Barrie resized the wood, erected the barricades and reinstalled unbroken windows into their frames. And all this before he’d even started on his own home (which, because of the damage to his actual house, was temporarily another neighbour’s house just down the hill from us).

This time, learning from what we experienced during Irma, we were prepared for the worst.

As the darkness of the evening drew in we switched off the generator, retired to our bedroom and waited.

We had no idea when José would hit. All we could do was try and get some rest and be prepared to evacuate to the shower room (which we’d identified as the safest place) when needed. We couldn’t sleep because of the anxiety running through our veins. The eerie howling noise of the breeze outside played tricks on our minds, taunting us with imagined increases in velocity.

But José never materialised. As dawn again broke, we were both tired and mystified. Was the hurricane still on its way? Should we stay put or try to find out if we were still in danger?

Two voices shouting towards us from below gave us the answer. They belonged to two representatives from the firm Lauren worked for, who’d been looking for her to evacuate her from the island.

José had suddenly turned north before it had hit us and was no longer a threat, they said. And, to Lauren’s relief, she was to be airlifted off the island.

Our “hurricane family” was about to lose one of its members, but we were equally relieved for Lauren. With hindsight, our outcome from Irma may well have been completely different had she not been there with us. And I owe her a debt of gratitude for having the presence of mind to find the first aid kit to dress my injured hand.

But it was now four full days since Irma first hit and we hadn’t been in touch with any of our family and friends. We knew they’d be worried sick,

especially if the media were showing such scenes of destruction.

With my finger wound and the very real potential for septicemia setting in, we needed to find a way to get off the island soon. But without access to the internet or a phone signal, there was no way we could even attempt it. So we wandered down the hill to try and find someone to speak to who might give us more information.

Along the way, another of our neighbours mentioned that someone had access to a single wifi signal at Nanny Cay, a resort marina and boat yard 15 minutes away. The only problem was that access was strictly for residents, business owners and staff.

It was a long shot that we couldn’t afford to pass up. Barrie had been right all along. We couldn’t rely on anyone but ourselves to remove us from this situation. So we returned up the hill, updated Barrie on what we’d learned and picked up Nicky’s iPad, the solitary piece of communication equipment still working.

But, as we drove down the hill once more, we had no idea just how much the chain of events would turn back and forth over the next 48 hours.

Part Three: Sanctuary

Day Four: Contact with the outside world

The arrival of The Royal Marines was, to say the least, a welcome sight on the island. With each passing day, as food and water supplies became increasingly valuable commodities, the chances of an escalation in looting and a breakdown of law and order were heightened. And Nanny Cay, with its boatyard, retail businesses and plush condos, was a prime target. So, when we arrived, we were hopeful rather than expecting to enter the complex.

A barrier had been erected to prevent any unauthorised people just wandering in, and two marines were stationed to enforce it. Fortunately, Barrie knew one of the guys in charge and convinced him we needed to use the wifi coverage to arrange our evacuation.

We entered a world that was a symbol of the British Virgin Islands’ prosperity. Only, instead of immaculately maintained yachts and catamarans safely cradled in rows, there was now just a tangled mess of boats on their sides, blown over like a set of dominoes.

We witnessed a large catamaran that had crashed into a security office and turned over 180 degrees so that its two hulls were pointing toward the sky. And a communications tower had broken in two and smashed across the decks of the boats beside it.

Past the boatyard, we arrived at the condos and were directed to the one with the wifi coverage. And, sure enough, there were already half a dozen people sitting in the small yard out front with their phones, tablets and laptops. The wifi password had been pinned to the front door on a scrap of paper. A minute later, Nicky had connected via her iPad and logged on to Facebook Messenger. Her message to our family and friends contained just two words.

'We’re safe'.

It was an emotional moment. Four full days after Irma had hit, we’d finally been able to get word out. Within seconds Nicky’s sister, Kirsty, had replied followed by other family and friends. But with just a 20% charge left on her iPad and no charger (lost in the storm), we had to conserve as much battery power as possible.

So Kirsty became our go-to person for contact with the outside world. She’d registered us as missing persons with the British Foreign Office and added us to the BVI’s Evacuation List. She’d posted updates on her Facebook page and shared them on our own “AboveUsOnlySkies” Facebook page, too.

But her attention would now turn to looking for ways to get us off the island. We agreed we’d connect again the following morning after she’d had the chance to do her research back in the UK. For now, we had to conserve the remaining battery power on the iPad and return to the house before the 6 pm curfew came into effect.

Day Five: A desperate search

The following morning, we saw a guy trying to break into an empty house just down the hill from us. Not in the mood for anyone threatening the security on “our hill”, we rushed down to confront him. Nicky told him there were three vicious dogs tied to a gate further up the hill and that the owners wouldn’t hesitate to set them upon anyone they didn’t know. And with that, he picked up his empty holdall and trudged back down the hill while we kept our distance behind him.

Shortly afterwards, Barrie arrived in his truck. He’d tried to make it to Road Town to pick up some materials but had to double back because of the traffic. He felt that things were descending into chaos and that the best thing for us to do was to sit tight for a few days until more help arrived. The positivity that had kept us going over the past four days appeared to have drained out of him. To be fair, we could see he was both mentally and physically exhausted. Which was not surprising considering the hours of effort he’d put into getting us this far.

After the euphoria of yesterday, it felt like everything had fallen apart again. Having received a glimmer of hope that a route off the island was a real possibility, it now seemed as far away as ever.

I decided we had to take back control of the situation. Our hosts had left us their car to use, which I’d been driving during our stay on the island. Nicky didn't have the confidence to drive the incredibly steep and winding hill. But my injured hand meant if we were to get back to Nanny Cay, she didin't have a choice. And Barrie’s truck had been up and down the hill enough times to flatten any remaining vegetation partially blocking the way.

So Nicky jumped in the car and carefully manoeuvred her way over and through each obstacle in turn, careful not to let the wheels slide over the steep edges. I tried to help by walking ahead and moving loose bits of debris.

We arrived again at Nanny Cay, this time being refused admittance due to an ongoing emergency. They said it might be possible for us to return around 5 pm, but we knew that the 6 pm curfew would give us little time to organise anything with Kirsty.

Someone mentioned they’d heard about another wifi signal available at a cafe in Road Town. We decided to give it a try. After all, we had nothing to lose. But as the traffic was horrendous, we parked up on the outskirts of town and went the rest of the way on foot. An experience neither of us will forget in a hurry.

The last time we were in Road Town there was a Disney cruise ship moored in the picturesque harbour. Families were walking around town wearing Mickey Mouse ears and pastel-coloured boutique stalls were selling BVI tee-shirts. This time there were crumpled buildings, office blocks with their windows blown out and overturned cars everywhere.

Military helicopters whirred above while armoured vehicles, packed with newly arrived Royal Marines, sped past us. It was like strolling through the set of a disaster movie. Or a war movie, come to think of it. And amidst all this chaos was the bizarre scene of four guys who’d set up a table and chairs amongst the rubble of a previously well-heeled bar. Complete with a bottle of rum, mixers and four glasses.

Stoic resistance in the face of adversity.

But the presence of the military was such a positive one. We spoke with a few of them, asking for news, advising them of the security risk on our isolated hill and telling them how glad we were to see them. Despite the misgivings at home of the Government’s response, these men and women made us feel proud to be British.

The reason we were in Road Town, of course, was to try and find an internet signal. Needless to say, the cafe we were looking for didn’t have one. The Digicel office that supposedly had a phone signal outside didn’t possess one either. And the waiting list at the hospital to have my finger re-dressed was as long as ever.

We decided to cut our losses and head back.

Returning to Nanny Cay, Nicky once more used her powers of persuasion to obtain access to the site, and we again headed straight to the condo with wifi access.  There were still no scheduled flights out of Tortola. Nicky’s sister, Kirsty, had found some flights back to the UK from Puerto Rico. We just had to find our own way there. But, as the ferries were still not running from the island, we found ourselves continually coming up against a brick wall.

Then an American girl, who’d overheard our conversation, asked us if we’d like two tickets on a private boat to St Thomas (US Virgin Islands) the next morning. It ultimately transpired that we didn’t have the right visa to make that happen. But she suggested I speak to a guy called Dylan, who used to work for Richard Branson on Necker Island, and who was trying to coordinate helicopter flights to Puerto Rico.

By this time, I was willing to give anything a go. She took me to Dylan’s condo where I discussed the possibilities with him. He couldn’t guarantee anything but said he was liaising with Richard Branson’s PA and the Governor’s Office in the BVI to evacuate people to Puerto Rico in a four-seater helicopter. There were two flights the next day, and due to a cancellation, there was a seat on each. To our amazement, there would be no cost attached. Without hesitation, we booked them both. I would get the first flight at 11:30, while Nicky would catch the later one at 13:30.

Before we left, Dylan warned us that the seats were still not guaranteed. He had yet to speak to the Governor to get permission for our evacuation but said we should still arrive ready to leave the following morning.

Ecstatic, we returned to tell Barrie and Arabella our news before heading to the house for an early night. Was this the moment our luck had finally changed? We didn’t dare to take anything for granted. But we did sleep soundly for probably the first time in what now seemed like a long while.

Day Six: Another setback

We had to pack lightly for such a small helicopter. But choosing what to take with us and what to leave behind was an easy decision compared with those we’d had to make over the past few days.

Barrie dropped us off at Nanny Cay – the final in a long list of brilliant gestures from someone who’d already lost so much to Irma. And now he was to look after the four cats under our charge during our housesit.

Within ten minutes we’d made it to Dylan’s condo, which sat opposite a makeshift helicopter landing space. He was still on his phone, coordinating and negotiating as usual. An ITN news crew interviewed us and asked if they could have a shot of us boarding the helicopter.

Everything seemed to be coming together. We were finally going home.

And then, just 30 minutes before my flight was ready to leave, Dylan took his phone from his ear and gave us the bombshell news. There were two emergency medical evacuations which had to take priority and Nicky’s seat was no longer available. It almost felt like it was bound to happen. Nicky broke down in tears.

But Dylan wasn’t finished. He’d managed to find us two seats on another helicopter flight the next morning at 8 am. The same conditions applied, though – he couldn’t guarantee them until he’d spoken to the Governor that evening. And rather than try and get back to the house, we could stay overnight at his condo.

By now our heads were spinning with the intensity of it all. And there was still the issue of my injured finger needing further medical attention. Our house sit hosts had arranged for a doctor to be on hand at our destination in Puerto Rico. But word about me had reached the military stationed at Nanny Cay. So, minutes later, I was sat in a hastily converted condo having my finger re-dressed by a military medic, surrounded by the Royal Marines of 40 Commando.

I couldn’t have been in safer hands.

And, our positivity was about to hit the roof as Dylan told us before we went to bed that our seats on the helicopter had now been confirmed.

Day Seven: Safe haven

Our anticipation was such that we got out of bed early and waited outside Dylan’s condo with our bags before anyone else was up. Eventually, we heard the helicopter before we saw its unmistakably yellow frame appear above the hillside. Within minutes we’d boarded, along with Bill, a British ex-pat in his 90s who’d lived on Tortola since 1968 and was being temporarily evacuated to Puerto Rico, ahead of a flight to Norway to stay with his son.

We lifted off and flew towards St Thomas, taking us back over “our hill” one final time. I asked our pilot, Maria, about who had organised and paid for our flight. She told me that Google CEO, Larry Page had deposited a large sum of money with Caribbean Buzz (who we were flying with) to evacuate people off Tortola. Like Branson, he owned an island in the BVI and was liaising with him to help people like us.

The flight to San Juan airport was a relatively quiet one. A time to reflect and take stock of what had happened over the previous days. There was no sense of excitement or optimism. Just a combined feeling of sadness and weariness.

We remained in Puerto Rico for a few days while we tried to get flights back to the UK, which had by now tripled in price. We eventually secured a flight back via the Dominican Republic and Germany, arriving at Birmingham airport where we were met by a beaming Kirsty.

Our first task was to visit the A&E department at the nearest hospital. As we sat in the waiting area, a young guy with a shoulder injury looked at my bandaged hand and asked me if I’d cut myself in a kitchen accident. I looked back at him, not knowing how to respond. And then, with what must have sounded like unnecessary sarcasm, I replied.

‘No, mate – I injured it in a hurricane’.

DEEPER DIVE: Five Years On From Hurricane Irma

Postscript

Of course, the ultimate and tragic irony of our story is that our “safe haven” of Puerto Rico was devastated by Hurricane Maria just five days after we’d left the island. And that, after Maria had wreaked further havoc on Tortola, too.

Three major hurricanes – Irma, Jose and Maria – in a matter of a couple of weeks.  A sobering reminder of how the people of the Caribbean are exposed to such potential catastrophes every year.

We watched with horror the TV pictures of the devastation in the BVI, Puerto Rico and elsewhere. We felt the pain of the people we left behind. But we were two incredibly lucky people who could escape. Unlike many others, whose lives were invested in the homes and livelihoods that now lay in tatters.

Our journey to survive Irma and evacuate from the island included some good fortune and being in the right place at the right time. But we also have a lot of people to thank who helped us at key moments and without whom we simply wouldn’t have made it.

People such as Lauren who helped Nicky hold the closet door shut while Irma’s 200 mph winds raged outside. Like Barrie, without who we would never have got off our hill and into the hospital for my finger to be treated. And Dr Stoutt, who took control of a chaotic situation at the hospital and put in the stitches I desperately needed.

Like Kirsty who worked tirelessly in the UK on our behalf to raise awareness, update our family and friends and get us on a flight home. And Dylan (the Ed Sheeran lookalike) who negotiated our helicopter flight to Puerto Rico.

Like Richard Branson and/or Larry Page (probably both) for funding the helicopter flight (we’re still not entirely sure how that came about). And Chris and Eric, our housesit hosts, who arranged for our transportation and accommodation in Puerto Rico.

But we also have to thank each other. We undoubtedly saved each other’s lives. And we’ll certainly be more prepared if we find ourselves in the path of such a potential disaster again.

It’s also taught us about the spirit of human nature. When your life is in danger and you don’t have control of the outcome, you’re capable of doing things you never thought possible.

Our journey required, amongst other things, bravery, persistence, single-mindedness, quick decision-making, teamwork and a desire to make things happen for ourselves. Qualities that the people of the BVI and Puerto Rico are undoubtedly displaying as they try to recover their lives.

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

Over the past few years, house sitting has grown exponentially as a means to travel. Especially for those of us who enjoy spending an extended amount of time in one location, rather than simply ticking off the “must-sees” and moving on.

Indeed, the choices for house sitting now extend well beyond the traditional hotspots of the USA, Canada, Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Part of the reason for this is the explosion in the number of expats who’ve moved from North America and Europe to tropical destinations in other parts of the Americas. For instance, we’ve completed a number of assignments in Brazil, The British Virgin Islands, St Vincent & The Grenadines, Panama, Costa Rica and Colombia, to name but a few.

But perhaps the biggest boom has been the availability of house sitting in Mexico. With an ever-increasing number of people either emigrating there from the USA or Canada (lured by great weather, superb food and a lower cost of living), or spending the winter months there living in a second home (aka “snowbirding”), homeowners are catching on to the benefits of having live-in carers for their pets and property when they’re not around.

As we write (2024), we’ve completed six house sits in Mexico – in Ajijic (Lake Chapala), Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende, Sayulita, El Pescadero (Baja California Sur) and Mexico City – over a period of six months. We’ll admit we love it there. And we fully intend on returning in the future.

So, in this article, we’ll describe what it’s like to live in Mexico as a house sitter, based on our own experiences. We’ll outline some of the challenges you might face. And we’ll point you in the right direction to find out more.

Disclosure: This page contains affiliate links, which means that if you ultimately make a purchase, we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. And it helps to keep our content free!

What is a house sitter?

It’s a question we’re often asked. Basically it’s an exchange of services between a homeowner (who needs pet care and/or security for their home while they’re away for a period of time) and a house sitter (who assumes responsibility for both in exchange for free accommodation).

By doing so, the house sitter is able to experience living in a new environment as a local (albeit in comfortable surroundings), as well as being able to explore the area. And, for us, house sitting in Mexico offers the best of both those worlds. Beautiful accommodation in authentic Mexican neighbourhoods with a whole raft of eating out, sightseeing and cultural experiences on the doorstep.

Of course, as the vast majority of house sits involve the care of pets, that comes with a considerable amount of responsibility. So a house sitter needs to be able to balance that responsibility with the feasibility of exploring the area they’re staying in.

We’ve been doing it since 2016, so we’d like to think we’re fairly experienced. But it’s never too late to start. Indeed, we’ve collated our experiences into a comprehensive guide on what it is and how to get started.

Start by setting up a free account with Trusted Housesitters

If you’re new to this concept but want to give it a try, you’ll need to sign up for one or more specialist websites that connect owners with potential house sitters. The world’s largest platform is Trusted Housesitters, with tens of thousands of opportunities around the globe.

By creating a free account with them you can preview what housesits are currently on offer, filtered by country, region or city.

You can do that by following this link and clicking on the “Find a house sit” tab. If you then decide to join as a member, you’ll also receive a 25% discount on your first year’s subscription.

Why house sitting in Mexico is so attractive

There’s a plentiful supply of quality accommodation

To be clear, the vast majority of house sits in Mexico are owned (or leased) by immigrants, expats or “snowbirds” (with second homes) from the USA and Canada. And, to a lesser degree, from Europe and elsewhere. They tend to congregate in particular locations that offer plenty of quality accommodation, along with access to great food, weather, scenery, beaches etc.

So, if you’re looking for a house sit with that extra bit of Mexican authenticity (in other words, Mexican owners, a Mexican-only neighbourhood etc) you’ll have to work a little harder.

But, as the growth in numbers of people emigrating to Mexico continues unabated, so will the opportunites to house sit. Especially as many homeowners are introduced to the concept of house sitting by friends and neighbours in their new community.

Housesit Mexico

Of course, there are other housesitting websites to consider, too. For the best choice in Mexican sits, we recommend HouseSit Mexico. What’s more, if you decide to sign up, you’ll get a 20% discount on your first year’s membership by using our coupon code: ianst6771c47b8153b

An opportunity to immerse yourself in Mexican daily life

For us, this is one of the big attractions. Yes, many of the sits are located in more touristy areas, with some facilities geared towards expats rather than local people, but that doesn’t mean you can’t experience genuinely Mexican daily life. Especially where food is concerned.

For example, during our two-month stay in Guanajuato, we would wander to our local plaza to buy our breakfast gordita from a mobile stall, choose our freshly prepared squeezed juice from a tiny hatch in the wall and buy our still-warm corn tortillas from the nearest tortilleria. Later, we might buy our fruit and vegetables from our favourite stall in Hidalgo Market, but save the huitlacoche (an edible fungus that grows on corn) for the elderly lady who sells it on the kerbside. And, in return, we’d be treated almost as locals by the people we interacted with. Simple pleasures, but ones we usually get the biggest kick from.

Of course, if you want to properly engage with ordinary, local people (rather than just those employed in the tourist or hospitality industry), it helps if you know some basic Spanish. So book yourself into a local Spanish school and a conversation practice group (there’ll be plenty about where there are expat communities) or choose an online course.

It’ll be worth it. We found most Mexicans to be friendly, welcoming people who were genuinely interested in what we thought of their town, country or culture.

The fantastic food

For us, Mexican cuisine is up there with anything that, say India, Thailand or Italy can offer. And it can be extremely good value for money, too.

Of course, many of the housesit destinations come with international restaurants and European-style coffee shops. But, whether you’re in Cancún or a tiny village in Baja, you’ll undoubtedly come across authentic Mexican food to die for.

For example, the ubiquitous tacos (and their derivatives) are everywhere – in restaurants, cafés, cantinas and mobile stalls. Many come with fillings specific to that region. Some are on the right side of the healthy eating spectrum. Others certainly are not. Suffice to say, we love them!

Obviously, Mexican food is more than just tacos. Although you’re never that far away from a tortilla, a bowl of rice, some black beans and a selection of salsas. Our Guanajuato Food Guide gives you a flavour of what’s typically on offer.

READ MORE: The Different Types of Mexican Tacos

And it’s not only about eating out, either. As we’ve mentioned, we really enjoy buying local produce and experimenting with Mexican dishes at home. All you need to do is research some recipes you’d like to try, buy your ingredients locally and, through trial and error, start to create your own masterpieces.

Such as our tostada (a crispy, flat tortilla) topped with refried beans, sliced tomatillo, tomato, avocado, fried egg and salsa macha (hot and crispy chilli salsa). OK, we didn’t quite nail the presentation but they tasted wonderful for breakfast!

You can get 180 days in Mexico without a visa

Residents of the USA, Canada, the UK and much of Europe can visit Mexico for up to 180 days without the need for a visa. That’s as long as the visit is for tourist or education purposes and not for paid work. So it opens up the possibility for longer-term or multiple housesits to make the most of your time.

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Mexico has excellent transport links

It’s pretty straightforward getting around Mexico, despite the lack of a country-wide passenger rail network. The luxury inter-city buses are fast, comfortable and relatively inexpensive. And budget airlines (such as Viva and Volaris) can be even cheaper – especially if you don’t have checked-in luggage.

If you’re house sitting in the Yucatan Peninsula, the newly opened Tren Mayaa (Mayan Train) connects the main archaeological sites, Pueblo Magicos and beach resorts in the region.

There are so many great sight-seeing opportunities…

Naturally, if you’re house sitting in Mexico, you’ll still want to find time to go full-on-tourist from time to time. And there’s so much to choose from. For instance, the historic Mayan and Aztec sites like Chichén Itzá, Palenque and Teotihuacán; the natural wonders of Copper Canyon, the Monarch Butterfly Reserve and the Sea of Cortez; the coastal delights of the Mayan Peninsula, Oaxaca and Baja California; and the pueblo magícos (“magic towns”) such as Izamal, Tequila and Pátzcuaro.

…and cultural events to experience

And, if you’re lucky enough to be house sitting when there’s a festival in town, then you’re in for a treat.

Mexicans don’t need much of an excuse to set up a festival, which often includes crowd-pleasers such as live music, dancing, fireworks, tequila (or mezcal) and the inevitable taco stalls. They can occur throughout the year but can be specific to a region or town.

However, some of the national festivals (eg: Día de Muertos – Day of the Dead) are such big events that booking hotel or Airbnb accommodation needs to be done well in advance. And it’ll probably cost substantially more than normal, too. Another benefit of being able to housesit during those periods instead.

READ MORE: Oaxaca’s Day Of The Dead Festival

So, where can you house sit in Mexico?

Although most house sits are based in the Baja peninsula, central Mexico or the Yucatan peninsula, there are others to be found in less travelled places, too. But, to give you a flavour of where you can house sit in Mexico, here’s our rundown of the most popular destinations, running west to east.

The Baja California Peninsula is a big favourite for lovers of desert landscapes, whale watching, big game fishing, beaches and seafood tacos. Due to its easy access from the USA (especially California) there are plenty of US & Canadian expat housesits, both in the north (such as Rosarito and Ensenada) and south (Cabo San Lucas, Todos Santos, La Paz and Loreto).

We housesat in El Pescadero, near to Todos Santos, for two months. Much quieter and laid back than its brasher cousins along the coast, it’s nevertheless an up-and-coming area for those who want to avoid the excesses of Cabo San Lucas et al.

READ MORE: El Pescadero: A Taste Of Rural Baja

On the opposite side of the Gulf of California, Mazatlan (in Sinaloa state), with its beaches, 21 km of malécon (boardwalk) and vibrant nightlife has a growing expat community. And, in neighbouring Nayarit, Puerto Vallarta is a famously upmarket, traditional resort with an international flavour.

We housesat just up the coast from there in Sayulita, which has more of a hippie / backpacker vibe. Although, to be honest, it was far too dusty for us. And it seemed like there were as many as three American tourists for every Spanish-speaking Mexican. Not a place we’d particularly recommend.

Heading inland, Jalisco state has a couple of hotspot areas for house sitters. The big attraction is Lake Chapala, with its large retiree expat population and spring-like climate. Most house sits are in and around the lakeside town of Ajijic, with its cobbled steets, colourful buildings, street art and plentiful restaurants. There’s also a sizeable influx of city dwellers who travel down from Guadalajara to severely test the resort’s capacity to cope during weekends and public holidays.

We housesat for three weeks within a gated community in nearby San Juan Cosalá.

Just north of Lake Chapala, Guadalajara is a lovely city with a fantastic historic centre. Although we didn’t house sit, we did spend some time there and would jump at the chance to return if a sit became available.

READ MORE: The Best Things To Do In Guadalajara

Southeast of Jalisco, Michoacán state has a poor reputation for safety, but there are a couple of house sitting destinations that are true gems. Pátzcuaro is a beautiful and historic lakeside town with strong connections to its indigenous heritage. Which culminates in Mexico’s most authentic Day of the Dead celebrations at the beginning of November.

And, less than an hour away by road, the gorgeous city of Morelia is full of colonial-era grand buildings, wide streets and a big University population. Both are considered safe for tourists to visit and we feel are more authentically Mexican than some of those to the west.

READ MORE: Things To Do In Morelia

North of Michoacán, the state of Guanajuato is home to three colourful towns/cities with historic roots in the Mexican Revolution. Dolores Hidalgo is where the revolution began before it escalated in nearby Guanajuato (the state’s capital).

We’ll nail our colours to the mast right here – having spent two months house sitting there, Guanajuato is undoubtedly our favourite Mexican town. And we’ve written quite extensively about it. It might be a little rough around the edges for some but, for us, its history, superb street food and unique nightlife make it a special place. And it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site to boot.

However, for pure aesthetics, it’s hard to beat San Miguel de Allende, the ridiculously picturesque town 90 minutes away by road – and another UNESCO World Heritage Site. With clean, cobblestoned streets, beautifully maintained buildings, upmarket restaurants, cafés and boutique shopping – together with colourful parades and fireworks displays galore – it’s no wonder that it attracts so many expats from across the world. And plenty of wealthy Mexicans, too. Of course, that also means higher prices and LOTS of English-speaking voices.

READ MORE: Things To Do In San Miguel de Allende

AND/OR… The Essential Guide To Guanajuato

Between San Miguel de Allende and Mexico City lies Santiago de Querétaro, another of central Mexico’s colonial-era cities. And then Mexico City itself is a sprawling, high-altitude metropolis with a number of house sitting hotspots that are worth seeking out. Most tend to be in the historic centre of the city, specifically the bohemian neighbourhoods of Condesa and Roma. As for us, we completed a one-week sit in the upmarket neighbourhood of Polanco, close to the shiny, silver curves of the futuristic Soumaya Museum.

Just a couple of hours east of Mexico City, Puebla is another historic city with a lovely old centre, and is famous for its signature culinary speciality, mole poblano. We spent a week-or-so there in the build-up to the Day of the Dead celebrations and would love to return for a house sit if we can.

READ MORE: A Puebla Walking Tour And Travel Guide

Five hours southeast of Puebla by road, Oaxaca is another foodie destination and home to one of Mexico’s biggest Day of the Dead festivals. And, like Puebla, it specialises in moles – only Oaxaca has seven different types. Factor in tlayudas (extra-large, thin tortillas smothered with refried beans and various toppings), stringy Oaxacan cheese, smoke-filled BBQ stalls and enough crispy fried grasshoppers to frighten any unsuspecting child and you begin to realise why it’s considered Mexico’s culinary capital.

Oh, and did we mention that Oaxaca is the chocolate and mezcal (a smokier version of tequila) capital of Mexico, too?

Also in Oaxaca state, Puerto Escondido is one of several beach resorts along the tropical coastline that have developed from sleepy surfing towns to burgeoning ex-pat communities. We haven’t been there yet but have plans to do so on our next visit.

And, in the far east of the country, the twin states of Yucatán and Quintana Roo face both the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea.

Merida is the capital of Yucatán and is said to be Mexico’s safest city. It’s also a great base for exploring the Gulf of Mexico beaches, Mayan ruins (such as Uxmal) and the many cenotes (open caves with crystal clear pools). And the city itself is another Mexican hotspot for foodies, too.

Meanwhile, neighbouring Quintana Roo will be familiar to anybody whose taken a package holiday in Mexico as it’s where the brash super-resorts of Cancun and Playa del Carmen are located.

READ MORE: What To Do In Merida As A First Time Visitor

Some things to consider

Look at different ways to find house sits

We’ve already identified the Trusted Housesitters platform as a great place to start your search. However, there are some other ways to improve your reach.

For instance, Housesit Mexico is a dedicated platform for Mexican sits that might serve you well as a complement to Trusted Housesitters. Or as a cheaper alternative.

But, if you think about it, lots of expats in one place tend to lead to expat Facebook groups. So identifying and joining one or more of those groups can lead to conversations about house sitting opportunities.

And, once you’ve started your first assignment, there’s a good chance your host might know other people on the lookout for sitters, too. Just ask for a referral.

The pets you’ll be looking after

The vast majority of advertised sits include caring for one or more pets. Mostly dogs and cats, but sometimes other pets, too (eg: horses, reptiles, birds). So when choosing your sit, bear in mind what you’ll be committing to once you’ve agreed to it.

For instance, if the homeowner wants their two dogs to be walked three times per day, that might interfere with any of your plans to go off exploring. On the other hand, you might like the idea of exploring the local area and taking the dogs with you. Or perhaps you’d be better off looking for a sit where there are just a couple of cats.

Our preference would normally be for where a dog is needing one long morning walk, which fits in perfectly with our lifestyle. It’s very much a case of “horses for courses”.

Staying safe

It won’t have escaped your attention that Mexico has a bad reputation for violence, largely as a result of drug cartel activity and a high incidence of femicide. And there’s no escaping the fact that outbreaks of violence are a potential hazard throughout the country.

Having said that, most incidents involving tourists are those that involve muggings for money. Which, to be honest, can happen in cities across the world. That’s not to downplay the issue. Drug gang violence is a real problem. But it’s normally between themselves rather than gangs versus tourists. The headlines come when tourists and innocent bystanders get caught in the crossfire.

However, it goes without saying that you need to follow basic safety measures to reduce the chances of being mugged or caught up in any gang-related violence. Be aware of your surroundings, dress modestly, don’t wander along empty unlit streets at night and heed your home country’s travel advice.

But don’t let the warnings and headline horror stories put you off from going – most people don’t encounter any problems at all. We’ve spent nine months backpacking and house sitting in Mexico without a sniff of trouble.

The biggest threat we faced was from street dogs. Ian was attacked in Guanajuato by three dogs that took a dislike to him as he walked through their territory (no injuries sustained, but shaken by the experience). And he was also confronted by several dogs from a rooftop in San Juan Cosala.

Again, this is not just a Mexican problem, but it’s something we became wary of as we explored our surroundings.

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Final thoughts

For many reasons, Mexico is one of our favourite house sitting destinations. And with a plentiful, and ever-increasing supply of attractive housesits available throughout the year, it’s becoming easier to find them on sites such as Trusted Housesitters and Housesit Mexico.

Indeed, there’s a lot more we want to see and do in the country. Which we’ll almost certainly do by combining guest house accommodation with periods of house sitting. Especially in states we’d like to explore more of, such as Oaxaca, Puebla and Guanajuato.

So, if you’re new to house sitting or are thinking of plunging in, we’d suggest Mexico as a great place to start. And, if you need any advice, feel free to use our Comments section below and we’ll post a response right away.

You can also read this post at the Above Us Only Skies website.

Which are the best Rio de Janeiro neighbourhoods for international visitors? And which ones should I avoid?

Questions we asked ourselves before our first trip to the Cidade Maravilhosa (“Marvellous City”). And, to be honest, given Rio’s reputation for crime, it’s not unreasonable to want to be armed with a good knowledge of the city’s hotspots and no-go areas (of which there are plenty).

Of course, determining the “best” neighbourhoods depends on what you want to do with your time when you’re there. So, in this post, we’ll cover each neighbourhood in turn (starting in Centro and gradually heading southwest) to give you an idea of what you can expect).

North Zone (Zona Norte)

Most of the North Zone – which stretches from the edge of downtown Rio to the northern extremities of the city – is pretty much off-limits for most international visitors. As the largest of the zones, it’s also where vast swathes of industry, housing blocks and favelas are crammed together. It’s certainly not a place to wander alone in (especially at night). And – with some notable exceptions – it holds very little of interest for the casual visitor.

As such, tourists typically don’t see this part of Rio. However, there are several reasons why you might want to venture at some point.

For instance, chances are your flight into Rio will land at Galeão Airport (unless you’re coming in on a domestic flight).

But, for many (including us), the opportunity to see a futebol game at Rio’s iconic Maracaná Stadium is something to be cherished. Home to two of Brazil’s biggest teams – Flamengo and Fluminense – there’s a game on most weekends during the season (April till December). As a visitor, you can buy tickets as part of a tour. Or go independently by buying from one of the club shops dotted around the city.

Just as celebrated is the city’s association with its African roots through its samba schools, many of which (such as Mangueira and Salgueiro) are dotted around the North Zone. During the year, they typically hold weekend events where visitors can watch practice sessions (for the annual Carnaval) and enjoy authentic bowls of feijoada, Brazil’s national dish of meat stew and beans.

All of which culminates in the unbelievable parades at the Sambadrome during Carnaval. Essentially a long parade ground with grandstands on either side, to witness these spectacles is something to behold. As long as you can stay awake from 9 pm through till dawn when it finally ends.

Another way to experience truly Brazilian culture is at the Feira de São Cristóvão, a centre of Northeastern food, music and dance, set inside an old football stadium. It’s open from 10 am, six days per week, but comes into its own on Friday and Saturday when the party rolls on until 4 am. Take our advice, though, and get a taxi/Uber there and back.

And don’t miss Litte Africa in the Saudé neighbourhood, just outside Centro. It’s where escaped and freed slaves lived and is claimed to be the birthplace of samba. Especially at Pedra do Sal (“Rock of Salt”), originally a slave market and now the site of a twice-weekly open-air samba party (Monday and Friday) that runs late into the night. Expect standing-room space only, loud music and lots of caipirinha stalls.

Central Zone

Centro

Rio’s Central Zone is effectively its Centro neighbourhood, where it all began when the city was founded by the Portuguese in 1565. It’s where the old (Lisbon-style colonial homes, Baroque-Renaissance churches, and classical buildings such as the Opera House and National Library) meet the new (high-rise glass office buildings).

There’s much to see during the day, either on foot or via the excellent tram network, from Boulevard Olympico (with its huge murals and futuristic Museu de Amanha) to Praça XV (with its ferry terminal and beautiful government buildings) and Rua Ouvidor (home to shops, bars and restaurants). Curiously, these areas become deserted during the evenings and on Sundays when office workers are absent, shops are closed and personal safety can be an issue.

Conversely, Lapa (with its historic arches, aka the “Carioca Aqueduct”) is where the evening action begins, with wall-to-wall bars, restaurants and nightclubs.

Our highlights of Centro include watching a performance at the Opera House, gazing in awe at the interior of the Portuguese Reading Room and visiting the Museu de Amanha to see a spectacular exhibition of Amazonian photography. And, as we were house sitting across the bay in Niterói, our arrival by ferry allowed us close-up views of the palace on Ilha Fiscal, scene of the very last Imperial Ball in 1889.

Oh, and we found ourselves returning many times to the cheap and cheerful restaurants that spill out onto the traffic-free Travessa do Comércio.

Santa Teresa

On the hillside overlooking Centro, Santa Teresa is an altogether more bohemian neighbourhood. It can be reached via the bonde, a historic tram service that crosses the Carioca Aqueduct and winds up through the cobblestoned streets.

Home to grandiose buildings, local artists and some of Rio’s trendiest bars, it’s especially worth visiting at weekends when impromptu live music crops up around Largo dos Guimarães. And, on Saturdays, the nearby flea market hosts the lively Samba dos Guimarães, which continues into the early hours of Sunday morning.

Don’t miss Parque das Ruinas, a ruined mansion that holds art exhibitions and has superb views of Rio and across the bay to Niterói. And make sure you pay a visit to the lovely Bar Armazém São Thiago (aka “Bar do Gomes”) for some old-school Rio hospitality – and great caipirinhas. It also happens to be our favourite bar in Rio.

Elsewhere, grab a table at Portella Bar for some live music and say “hello” to one of the colourful Namoradeiras that peer out from the windows.

Boutique accommodation is available in the neighbourhood, too. Although away from the dynamic Largo dos Guimarães, you’d be wise to take a taxi or Uber to get around at night.On the hillside overlooking Centro, Santa Teresa is an altogether more bohemian neighbourhood. It can be reached via the bonde, a historic tram service that crosses the Carioca Aqueduct and winds up through the cobblestoned streets.

READ MORE: A Self-Guided Tour Of Rio's Historic Centre

South Zone (Zona Sul)

Mention Rio’s south zone and most people think of the world-famous beach neighbourhoods of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon.

But there are additional neighbourhoods, centred around Guanabara Bay, that are also worth visiting. Indeed, some of the grand buildings facing the bay hark back to the late 19th and early 20th Century when Glória, Catete and Flamengo were fashionable residential areas. That was until the 1920s with the opening of a tunnel connecting Centro with the obvious attractions of Copacabana.

Nowadays, the neighbourhoods between Centro and Barra de Tijuca, at the southern end of Zona Sul, are connected by the underground metro, making them easily accessible.

Glória

Positioned directly between Guanabara Bay, Santos Dumont Airport and Santa Teresa perched behind, Glória has seen some gentrification in recent years. But it comes into its own on Sundays when the busy highway that runs through it becomes a traffic-free zone bringing joggers, hikers and families with prams out in force.

As we were self-catering, we made several visits to the fabulous Feira de Glória – a weekly open-air food market that takes place beside Praça Paris every Sunday between 7 am and 4 pm. And breakfast tapiocas, pastels and the odd choppe beer made the visit even more worthwhile.

Meanwhile, Glória Marina marks the beginning of a lovely boardwalk that continues along the water’s edge to Urca and Sugar Loaf Mountain. We even enjoyed watching the aeroplanes circle Sugar Loaf before descending into Santos Dumont.

Catete & Flamengo

The boardwalk continues alongside the beach in Flamengo, supposedly named after the Flemish prisoners of war who were incarcerated there during the 18th century. But this neighbourhood’s centrepiece is Parque do Flamengo, a large green space reclaimed from Guanabara Bay that extends into Glória and is more commonly known as just Aterro (or “Landfill”).

Used as an outdoor sports centre featuring football, volleyball, tennis and basketball courts, it’s also where Rio’s marathon races start and end. But there are some notable buildings to explore, too. Such as the Museu de Republica (previously known as Catate Palace), where former presidents once lived. And, at the southern end of the park, the Carmen Miranda Museum, dedicated to the famed Brazilian actress and singer who lived in Rio.

Our best experience in the park was to attend the Sargento Pimenta (“Sergeant Pepper”) Bloco during Carnaval. Blocos are effectively street parties (some organised, others just impromptu gatherings) that spring up all over Rio during the Carnaval celebrations. This was an organised event featuring a live band playing Beatles covers to a samba rhythm section. Which, for Ian (having grown up near Liverpool, home of the Fab Four), was quite something.

Botafogo

Further along the bay, the boardwalk finally arrives at Botafogo, which (like Glória) has been transformed in recent years. Indeed, its position at the crossroads between Guanabara Bay and the Atlantic-facing beaches of Copacabana, Ipanema et al, makes it a decent choice to stay.

It also sits on a small bay from which Sugar Loaf Mountain soars above the yachts and fishing boats. But don’t be fooled by the crescent-shaped beach – the water around it is polluted and it’s not a place for sunbathing.

Away from the beach, there’s a thriving shopping, restaurant and bar scene. And the Museu do Indio is a museum housed in a 19th-century building dedicated to Brazil’s indigenous groups.

And, as you wander around the streets, you’ll no doubt see plenty of locals sporting black-and-white football shirts. They’ll be supporters of Botafogo FC, another of Rio’s famous teams.

Urca

Urca sits on the small peninsula that stretches away from Botafogo and into the bay. Its main feature is the iconic Sugar Loaf Mountain, which probably needs no introduction. But it also boasts a pleasant walk along Avenida Portugal to the São Jão Fort, which becomes a magnet for sunset-watching locals and tourists, who congregate along the wall as the late-afternoon light begins to fade.

On the opposite side of the peninsula, Praia Vermelha (“Red Beach”) is a lovely cove with an alternative view of Sugar Loaf.

But, of course, everyone comes here to take the twin cable cars to the summit of Pão de Açúcar. It’s a thrilling ride and the views from the top are everything you’ve probably heard or read about. Especially if you go up just before sunset and stay until dark. The transformation during that time of the Rio skyline is simply mesmerising.

Leme

Crossing over the main highway from Bogota and the Urca peninsula to the Atlantic coast, the crescent-shaped Copacabana beach takes centre stage. But, to the left, Leme and its small beach sit snugly beneath Pedra do Leme, a rocky outcrop and another favoured spot for sunset lovers.

The beach here is less crowded than Copacabana, too.

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Copacabana

For many, Copacabana IS Rio. Four kilometres of white sand beach, surfing waves, perfectly sculptured bodies and endless stalls selling food, beer and caipirinhas, Brazil’s ubiquitous cocktail. Meanwhile, those who aren’t sunbathing, swimming or merely posing are either playing beach football or futevolei (a combination of football and volleyball).

Running its length, Avenida Atlântica is a busy road, complete with bicycle lanes and a famously landscaped mosaic promenade.

The wall-to-wall hotels and apartment complexes facing the beach are dwarfed by the opulence of the Copacabana Palace, a luxury hotel that counts royalty and Hollywood elites among its regular customers. And, behind the beachfront area, a dense jungle of bars, restaurants, shops and apartments compete for attention.

And yet, at the southern end of the beach, Fisherman’s Corner serves as a reminder of when this neighbourhood was nothing more than just a fishing village, with nets and boats resting on the sand rather than volleyball nets.

However, if you want to stay where the action is, Copacabana would be your choice. A word of warning, though – the beach area can be unsafe to wander around at night (although we haven’t experienced that ourselves).

Ipanema

Sandwiched on a thin strip of land between the ocean and Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, and just a short walk from Copacabana, south-facing Ipanema is arguably its neighbour’s upmarket cousin. The same beach environment exists, including a rocky sunset spot (Pedra do Arpoador) at the top end of the beach. But what sets it apart are the spectacular twin peaks of Dois Irmãos (“Two Brothers”) which loom over the eastern end.

Away from the beach, fans of higher-end shopping and eating are well catered for. And on Sundays, a hippy market in General Osorio Park draws crowds. Meanwhile, the main drag next to the beach is closed to traffic bringing walkers, cyclists, joggers and skateboarders out in their hundreds. And capoeira (a uniquely Brazilian mixture of martial arts and dance) performances break out, too.

On the downside, the wall-to-wall apartment blocks facing the beach are pretty soulless. But it’s safer at night than Copacabana. And we think this is the neighbourhood we’ll look to stay in next time around.

Leblon

Ipanema’s beach effectively ends when the drainage canal leading from the lake cuts through it en route to the ocean. Leblon begins on the other side of the canal and sits very much in the shadow of the Two Brothers.

This is now one of Rio’s (if not Brazil’s) wealthiest and trendiest neighbourhoods. Even more so than Ipanema. Which also means it’s one of the most expensive, too.

As you might expect, it has a vibrant nightlife but caters towards the well-heeled. Our go-to bar/restaurant is undoubtedly Academia de Cachaça, where there’s a huge range of Brazil’s national tipple, along with a sublime caipirinha de maracujá – a cocktail made with cachaça (a kind of Brazilian rum) and freshly pulped passion fruit.

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Gávea

Just as upmarket, Gávea is sandwiched inland between Leblon and South America’s largest favela, Rocinha.

It’s where the Jockey Club racecourse holds regular meetings and the Shopping Gávea mall entices fashion-conscious crowds.

And, for art and history buffs, the Instituto Moreira Salles features a pictorial history of Rio with over 80,000 photographs.

Jardim Botânico

Adjacent to Gávea, Jardim Botânico is another upmarket residential neighbourhood dominated by a couple of major tourist attractions.

Firstly its namesake, the Botanic Gardens, with sculptures, fountains, lakes and 6500 variations of plants and trees set within its 350 acres. And, next door, Parque Lage is a public park and nature reserve that also serves as the starting point for the trail to the top of Corcovado Mountain (and the Christ the Redeemer statue).

Lagoa

Lagoa incorporates both Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas and the road surrounding it. Locals (“Cariocas”) mostly come here to walk, cycle or run around the 8.5 km trail that circles the lake. And, in the evenings, to eat, drink and socialise at one or more of the many kiosks and food stalls.

It's a good neighbourhood to stay for hotels and apartments overlooking a lake, with some of Rio’s most iconic attractions on your doorstep.

São Conrado

Heading further away from Centro, beyond the favelas of Rocinha and Vidigal, São Conrado is another upmarket neighbourhood with a spectacular backdrop. It ticks all the usual Rio boxes – white sand beach, restaurants, bars, shopping mall etc. But it’s the natural setting that makes it so attractive.

Dominating everything is the monolithic slab of granite known as Pedra de Gávea. At 840 metres (2500 feet) it’s one of the highest ocean-facing mountains in the world and has probably THE most coveted hiking trail in Rio. And behind it, Pedra Bonita is a much easier 45-minute hike with sensational views from the top.

Pedra Bonita is also the home of paragliding in Rio, the flights ending on Pepino Beach in São Conrado.

Although São Conrado’s location is some distance from Centro, the metro line does make connecting with it (and all of the south zone’s other neighbourhoods feature here) pretty straightforward.

READ MORE: Hiking Morro Dois Irmaos: The Two Brothers Of Rio

West Zone (Zona Oeste)

Barra de Tijuca

Finally, Barra de Tijuca (known locally as just Barra) feels like a long way from Centro in many ways. It’s an area still in development but reached prominence for an international audience after the Rio Olympics of 2016 were largely held there.

The luxury high-rise condos, shopping malls, international restaurants, high-end nightclubs and 17km of beach make it feel more like Miami than Rio. And, due to the extension of the metro line, it’s now much more accessible from Centro.

But, as with so many neighbourhoods in Rio, the wealth and luxury of this beach neighbourhood contrasts markedly with the poverty and extreme conditions of the favelas up the hillside and elsewhere in the West Zone. Including the notorious Cidade de Deus, which featured in the acclaimed Brazilian film, City Of God.

READ MORE: 6 Of The Best Hikes In Rio

Final thoughts

As you may have drawn from this post, the best neighbourhoods in Rio for visitors tend to hug the coastline between Centro and Barra de Tijuca.

Choosing which one to stay in will depend on your priorities. But the good news is that they are all connected by Rio’s recently extended Metro. So, wherever you stay (apart from Barra de Tijuca) you’re still within striking distance of all the other neighbourhoods featured here.